In Morocco

social, religious and political history, and the physical properties, of the country; and this, though “a large order,” leaves out the visual and picturesque side, except in so far as the book touches on the always picturesque life of the people.

For the use, therefore, of the happy wanderers who may be planning a Moroccan journey, I have added to the record of my personal impressions a slight sketch of the history and art of the country. In extenuation of the attempt I must add that the chief merit of this sketch will be its absence of originality. Its facts will be chiefly drawn from the pages of M. Augustin Bernard, M. H. Saladin, and M. Gaston Migeon, and the rich sources of the “Conferences Marocaines” and the articles of “France-Maroc.” It will also be deeply indebted to information given on the spot by the brilliant specialists of the French administration, to the Marquis de Segonzac, with whom I had the good luck to travel from Rabat to Marrakech and back; to M. Alfred de Tarde, editor of “France-Maroc”; to M. Tranchant de Lunel, director of the French School of Fine Arts in Morocco; to M. Goulven, the historian of Portuguese Mazagan, to M. Louis Chatelain, and to the many other cultivated and cordial French officials, military and civilian, who, at each stage of my journey, did their amiable best to answer my questions and open my eyes.

NOTE

In the writing of proper names and of other Arab words the French spelling has been followed.

In the case of proper names, and names of cities and districts, this seems justified by the fact that they occur in a French colony, where French usage naturally prevails, and to spell Oudjda in the French way, and koubba, for instance, in the English form of kubba, would cause needless confusion as to their respective pronunciation. It seems therefore simpler, in a book written for the ordinary traveller, to conform altogether to French usage.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PREFACE

I. RABAT AND SALE

II. VOLUBILIS, MOULAY IDRISS AND MEKNEZ

III. FEZ

IV. MARRAKECH

V. HAREMS AND CEREMONIES

VI. GENERAL LYAUTEY’S WORK IN MOROCCO

VII. A SKETCH OF MOROCCAN HISTORY

VIII. NOTE ON MOROCCAN ARCHITECTURE

IX. BOOKS CONSULTED

INDEX

ILLUSTRATIONS

FEZ ELBALI FROM THE RAMPARTS

GENERAL VIEW FROM THE KASBAH OF THE OUDAYAS—RABAT

INTERIOR COURT OF THE MEDERSA OF THE OUDAYAS—RABAT

ENTRANCE OF THE MEDERSA—SALE

MARKET-PLACE OUTSIDE THE TOWN—SALE

CHELLA—RUINS OF MOSQUE—SALE

THE WESTERN PORTICO OF THE BASILICA OF ANTONIUS PIUS—VOLUBILIS

MOULAY IDRISS

THE MARKET-PLACE—MOULAY IDRISS

MARKET-PLACE ON THE DAY OF THE RITUAL DANCE OF THE HAMADCHAS—MOULAY IDRISS

THE MARKET-PLACE PROCESSION OF THE CONFRATERNITY OF THE HAMADCHAS—MOULAY IDRISS

GATE: “BAB-MANSOUR”—MEKNEZ

THE RUINS OF THE PALACE OF MOULAY-ISMAEL—MEKNEZ

FEZ ELDJID

A REED-ROOFED STREET—FEZ

THE NEDJARINE FOUNTAIN—FEZ

THE BAZAARS: A VIEW OF THE SOUK EL ATTARINE AND THE QUAISARYA—FEZ

THE “LITTLE GARDEN” IN BACKGROUND, PALACE OF THE BAHIA—MARRAKECH

THE GREAT COURT, PALACE OF THE BAHIA—MARRAKECH

APARTMENT OF THE GRAND VIZIER’S FAVORITE, PALACE OF THE BAHIA—MARRAKECH

A FONDAK—MARRAKECH

MAUSOLEUM OF THE SAADIAN SULTANS SHOWING THE TOMBS—MARRAKECH

THE SULTAN OF MOROCCO UNDER THE GREEN UMBRELLA

A CLAN OF MOUNTAINEERS AND THEIR CAID