“Esteban!”
“Yes?”
“Who's that fucking saint you pray to?”
“San Andrйs!”
“Well, hook us up!”
The wave lifts and takes them over the top.
The kids scream.
He's in time. Now he tilts the rudder to break left and move diagonally down the face of the wave. He can feel the water rising behind him, then curling over him, and then they're out of the tube and the boat crashes heavily into the white water.
It bounces hard, and for a second he's afraid he's going to lose it, let it slip out from under him and turn sideways and get rolled, but he manages to keep it straight and it settles into the wash and glides into the mouth of the lagoon.
Dave says a quick prayer of thanks.
To San George Freeth.
“Esteban, take the rudder,” Dave says. When the kid, visibly shaken but grinning like a fool, takes over, Dave digs in his pocket for his cell phone.
SOP.
Let the guys know the delivery is on the way.
124
Boone drives up the Pacific Coast Highway.
Through all the beach towns, past all the great breaks.
Thinks about all the waves, the rides, the wipeouts. The long leisurely hours in the lineups, or hanging out on the beach, talking story. The cookouts, grilling fish for tacos, watching the sun go down. The bonfires at night, sitting close to the flame to get warm, watching the stars come out, listening to someone play the guitar or the uke.
Doing things you love, in a place you love, with people you love
… that's what life is, what it should be anyway. If you spend your life that way-and I have, Boone thinks-then you should have no regrets when it's over. Maybe just a little sorrow knowing that you're riding your last wave.
If you even know it's your last.
What I've seen.
What I've seen, Boone thinks. I've seen the world from the inside of a wave, the universe in a single drop of water.
There's a world out there you know nothing about.
The sun will come up soon, The Dawn Patrol will be out, shooting for the big waves, Sunny will be taking her shot. He'd like to be out there with them, would like to be out there forever. But there are some sunrises you have to see alone.
Boone turns inland from the ocean and heads for the strawberry fields.
He's on The Dawn Patrol.
125
Johnny Banzai and Steve Harrington sit in their car and wait.
Below them, an old van makes its way down the narrow dirt road to a clearing at the edge of Batiquitos Lagoon.
“You think that's them?” Harrington asks.
Johnny shrugs.
Since Dave's call, Johnny doesn't know what is what. He doesn't know anything about anything anymore. The call was surreal. “It's Dave. I'm coming into Batiquitos Lagoon with a load of wetbacks. Johnny, they're kids. ”
But he bets it's them. It's four o'clock in the morning; there's not a lot of reason to be driving a van down to the lagoon. Unless you're picking up something you're not supposed to be picking up.
He lifts the night scope and scans the lagoon.
A few minutes later, he sees the boat.
“Jesus God,” he murmurs, handing the scope to Harrington.
“They're kids,” Harrington says. “Little girls.”
Johnny takes the glasses back and counts seven little girls, a young male Hispanic, and Dave.
“You want to take them here?” Harrington asks.
“Fuck no.”
“What if we lose them?”
“Then I'll commit ritual seppuku,” Johnny says.
“What's that?” Harrington asks. “Some sort of Jap thing?”
“You should read a book every once in a while,” Johnny replies. He turns the glasses onto the van and can make out the license plate. He calls it and a description of the van into the Sex Crimes Unit waiting on the 5.
Then he turns back to the boat, which is making a gentle, perfect landing onshore.
126
Dave hops out of the Zodiac.
The ground feels funny under his feet.
“I thought I was delivering herb,” he says to the guy who gets out of the van, a cute little shit named Marco.
“You thought wrong,” Marco says. “You got a problem?”
“No problem,” Dave says, because the guy is holding a wicked-looking little machine gun under one arm. “Just tell Eddie I'm out.”
“ Youtell him,” Marco says. He reaches into his pocket, pulls out a fat envelope, and hands it Dave. “Help me get the merchandise into the van.”
“Do it yourself,” Dave says, stuffing the envelope into his jacket. “I'm done.”
“Whatever, bro.”
Another guy gets out of the van and starts herding the girls into it. They go obediently, passively, like they're used to being moved around.
“Jesus, they stink!” Marco says. “What'd you do with them?”
“Seasick,” Dave says. “It was a little rough out there, bro. And you might have let me know I was driving people. I would have been better prepared. You know, life jackets, shit like that?”
“If I had told you,” Marco says, “would you have gone?”
“No.”
“So?”
“What do they do now?” Dave asks. “They're like maids or something like that?”
“Yeah,” Marco says. “Okay, something like that. Look, much as I'd like to stand around and shoot the shit…”
“Yeah,” Dave says.
