the ether, and I must have caught it on London’s night shift, since the programs I found were of the “Gardens of Wales” and “Folk Songs of Bolivia” variety. I had nearly resigned myself to living in an entirely news-free world, when I heard a snippet that suddenly made me ravenous for news and commentary and rumor, causing me to pathetically spend the small hours of the morning scanning the shortwave radio dial, wishing again that my world was occupied by CNN and
I have long had a weakness for spectacle, and I’m willing to go to great lengths to consume its delights. It filled me with despair that I was missing out on the fun of a sex scandal enveloping the White House, particularly this sex scandal. The deliciousness of it. Its luridness. Its breathtaking stupidity. Now and then, in the small hours before dawn, I caught Voice of America. Inevitably, it was transmitting America’s Top Forty Countdown, confirming that America’s propaganda arm believes insipid banality to be the best way to capture hearts and minds abroad. If they must go lowbrow, I thought the Clinton sex scandal offered some opportunities. But sadly, VOA declined, preferring instead to inform the world that America can best be understood through the Backstreet Boys and Mariah Carey.
Eventually, I discovered that if I turned to a particular frequency at exactly 6 P.M., I could catch approximately five and a half minutes of BBC’s
It was maddening.
In an effort to obtain more information, I decided one day to subscribe to
“Hi. I’d like to subscribe to
“Name?” said a faint voice through the static.
I gave her my name.
“Phone number?”
“28657,” I said.
Pause.
“I need more numbers, sir,” said the voice on the line.
“Um, I don’t have more numbers. I’m calling from a small country, a very small country.”
“The computer won’t let me continue until I fill in all the spaces.”
“How many more numbers do you need?”
“Five.”
“Then make it 28657-00000.”
“Address?”
“P.O. Box 652, Tarawa, Kiribati.”
“I need a street name, sir?”
“There are no street names. There’s only one street here.”
Pause.
“The computer won’t let me continue until I put in a street name.”
“Okay. Put in Main Road.”
“All right, sir. You said Tara-something. Is that a city?”
“It’s an island.”
“I need a city.”
“There are no cities on this island.”
“The computer won’t let me—”
“Put in Bikenibeu.”
“Bikeni-who?”
“B-I-K-E-N-I-B-E-U.”
“Okay. State?”
“Ma’am, there are no states here. There are no cities. There are no streets. There are only islands.”
“I need a state, sir. The computer won’t let me—”
“Put in T-A-R-A-W-A.”
“Country?”
“Kiribati.”
“Kiri-what, sir?”
“K-I-R-I-B-A-T-I.”
“Sir, it’s not showing up in the database.”
“It’s an independent country. It’s been a country for almost twenty years. Surely
“It’s not showing up in the database, sir. Is there another name I could try?”
“Try Gilbert Islands.”
“I’m showing Ocean Island, Gilbert and Ellice Islands.”
“Ocean Island hasn’t been called Ocean Island in seventy years. It’s called Banaba.”
“Bana-what?”
“And the Gilbert and Ellice Islands are two separate countries now. The Gilbert Islands are part of Kiribati, and the Ellice Islands are now called Tuvalu.”
“Tuva-who?”
“Never mind. Let’s go with the colonial name.”
“All right, sir. Let me repeat the information. The address is: P.O. Box 652, The Main Road, Bikenibeu, Tarawa, Ocean Island, Gilbert and Ellice Islands. Telephone number 28657-00000. Is that correct?”
“Yes. I mean no. How much exactly is it going to cost me for you to send
“Let’s see. You’re not in Europe?”
“Nope.”
“And you’re not in Asia?”
“No.”
“And you’re not in Latin America.”
“No.”
“Okay. Then you’re in Other.”
She offered a chin-dropping figure. Already, the phone call alone was costing me the equivalent of the gross domestic product of Kiribati. I might have gone ahead with the subscription if I had been an English colonial officer stationed on Banaba in 1910, but I wasn’t, and I thought it imprudent to spend big bucks on a magazine that wasn’t at all confident that Kiribati existed.
Denied a magazine subscription, I turned to the other
The Australians would inevitably begin “Americans are so puritanical…”
“Yeah, yeah, yeah,” I’d say. “Whatever. Now, what do you know?”
They knew nothing.