large laboratories for chemical ecology, insect molecular biology, and pesticide chemistry, owned by the agricultural trust that Lawes and Gilbert founded after both were knighted by Queen Victoria. Rothamsted Manor has become a dormitory for visiting researchers from around the world. Yet tucked behind all the gleaming facilities, in a 300- year-old barn with dusty windowpanes, is Rothamsted’s most remarkable legacy.

It is an archive containing more than 160 years of human efforts to harness plants. The specimens, sealed in thousands of five-liter bottles, are of virtually everything. From each experimental strip, Gilbert and Lawes took samples of harvested grains, their stalks and leaves, and the soil where they grew. They saved each year’s fertilizers, including manure. Later, their successors even bottled the municipal sewage sludge spread on Rothamsted test plots.

The bottles, stacked chronologically on 16-foot metal shelves, date back to the first wheat field in 1843. When mold developed in early samples, after 1865 they were stoppered with corks, then paraffin, and finally lead. During war years, when bottle supplies grew scarce, samples were sealed in tins that once held coffee, powdered milk, or syrup.

Thousands of researchers have mounted ladders to peruse the calligraphy on time-yellowed bottle labels— to extract, say, soil collected in Rothamsted’s Geesecroft Field at a depth of nine inches in April 1871. Yet many bottles have never been opened: along with organic matter, they preserve the very air of their era. Were we to go suddenly, assuming no unprecedented seismic event dashes thousands of glass vessels to the floor, it’s fair to surmise that this singular heritage would survive intact long beyond us. Within a century, of course, the durable slate-shingled roof would begin to yield to rain and vermin, and the smartest mice might learn that certain jars, when pushed to the concrete and shattered, contain still-edible food.

Supposing, however, that before such entropic vandalism occurs, the collection is discovered by visiting alien scientists who happen upon our now-quiet planet, bereft of voracious, but colorful, human life. Suppose they find the Rothamsted archive, its repository of more than 300,000 specimens still sealed in thick glass and tins. Clever enough to find their way to Earth, they would doubtless soon figure out that the graceful loops and symbols penned on the labels were a numbering system. Recognizing soil and preserved plant matter, they might realize that they had the equivalent of a time-lapse record of the final century-and-a-half of human history.

Rothamsted Research Archive. PHOTO BY ALAN WEISMAN.

If they began in the oldest jars, they would find relatively neutral soils that didn’t stay that way for long as British industry redoubled. They would find the pH dropping farther into the acid end by the early 20th century, as the advent of electricity led to coal-fired power stations, which spread pollution beyond factory cities to the countryside. There would also be steadily increasing nitrogen and sulfur dioxide until the early 1980s, when improved smokestacks cut sulfur emissions so dramatically that the aliens might be puzzled to find samples spiked with powdered sulfur, which farmers had to start adding as fertilizer.

They might not recognize something that first appeared in Rothamsted’s grassland plots in the early-1950s: traces of plutonium, a mineral that barely occurs in nature, let alone in Hertfordshire. Like grape vintages embodying annual weather, the fallout from tests in the Nevada desert, and later in Russia, marked Rothamsted’s distant soils with their radioactive signature.

Uncorking the late 20th century, they would find that the bottles held other novel substances never before known on Earth (and, if they were lucky, not on their planet, either), such as polychlorinated biphenyls— PCBs— from the manufacture of plastics. To naked human eyes, the samples appear as innocent as comparable handfuls of dirt in specimen bottles from 100 years earlier. Alien vision, however, might discern menaces we only see with devices like gas chromatographs and laser spectrometers.

If so, they might glimpse the sharp fluorescent signature of polyaro-matic hydrocarbons (PAHs). They might be astonished at how PAHs and dioxins, two substances emitted naturally by volcanoes and forest fires, suddenly leaped from background levels into center-stage chemical prominence in soil and crops as the decades advanced.

If they were carbon-based life-forms like us, they might leap themselves, or at least back away, because both PAHs and dioxins can be lethal to nervous systems and other organs. PAHs were buoyed into the 20th century aboard clouds of exhaust from automobiles and coal-fired power plants; they’re also in the pungent odor of fresh asphalt. At Rothamsted, as at farms everywhere, they were introduced deliberately, in herbicides and pesticides.

Dioxins, however, were unintended: they’re by-products formed when hydrocarbons combine with chlorine, with tenacious, disastrous results. Besides their role as sex-changing endocrine disruptors, their most infamous application before being banned was in Agent Orange, a defoliant that laid bare entire Vietnamese rain forests so that insurgents would have nowhere to hide. From 1964 to 1971, the United States doused Vietnam with 12 million gallons of Agent Orange. Four decades later, heavily dosed forests still haven’t grown back. In their place is a grass species, cogon, called one of the world’s worst weeds. Burned off constantly, it keeps springing back, overwhelming attempts to supplant it with bamboo, pineapple, bananas, or teak.

Dioxins concentrate in sediments, and thus show up in Rothamsted’s sewage sludge samples. (Municipal sludge, since 1990 deemed too toxic to dump into the North Sea, is instead spread as fertilizer on European farmlands—except in Holland. Since the 1990s, the Netherlands has not only offered incentives that practically equate organic farming with patriotism, but has also struggled to convince its EU partners that everything applied to the land ends up in the sea anyway.)

Will the future visitors who discover Rothamsted’s extraordinary archive wonder if we were trying to kill ourselves? They might find hope in the fact that, beginning in the 1970s, lead deposition in soil waned significantly. But at the same time, the presence of other metals was increasing. Especially in preserved sludge, they would find all the nasty heavies: lead, cadmium, copper, mercury, nickel, cobalt, vanadium, and arsenic, and also lighter ones like zinc and aluminum.

3. The Chemistry

Dr. Steven McGrath hunches over his corner computer, deep-set eyes beneath his gleaming pate crinkling through rectangular reading lenses at a map of Britain and a chart color-coded with things that on an ideal planet— or one that gets the chance to start over—wouldn’t show up in plants that animals like to eat. He points at something yellow.

“This, for instance, is the net accumulation of zinc since 1843. No one else can see these trends because our samples,” he adds, his shirtfront slightly inflating, “are the longest test archive in the world.”

From sealed samples of a winter-wheat field called Broadbalk, one of Rothamsted’s oldest, they know that the original 35 parts per million of zinc present in the soil have nearly doubled. “That’s coming from the atmosphere, because our control plots have nothing added—no fertilizers, no manure or sludge. Yet the concentration is up 25 ppm.”

The test farm plots, however, which also originally had 35 ppm of zinc, now are at 91 ppm. To the 25 ppm from airborne industrial fallout, something is adding another 31 ppm.

“Farmyard manure. Cows and sheep get zinc and copper in their animal feed to keep them healthy. Over 160 years, it’s nearly doubled the zinc in the soil.”

If humans disappeared, so would zinc-laced smoke from factories, and no one would be feeding mineral supplements to livestock. Yet McGrath expects that, even in a world without people, metals we put into the ground will be around a long time. How long before rain leaches them out, returning soils to a preindustrial state, would depend, McGrath says, on their composition.

“Clays will hang onto them up to seven times as long as sandy soils, because they don’t drain as freely.” Peat, also poorly drained, can retain lead, sulfur, and organochloride pollutants like dioxin even longer than clay. McGrath’s maps show hot clusters on peat-covered hilltops on the English and Scottish moors.

Even sandy soils can bind nasty heavy metals when municipal sludge is mixed into them. In sludged earth, leaching of metals drops as chemical bonds form; extraction is mainly via roots. Using archived samples of Rothamsted carrots, beets, potatoes, leeks, and various grains treated since 1942 with West Middlesex municipal

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