colour was odd – bright orange, not the English fashion. He said something, but she couldn't make out his lip pattern. But then he could be speaking French, or Dutch, or Walloon – maybe even German. She mouthed back, 'Welcome to England.'
II
At last she came to a coastal town. But which one?
She tracked a rail line until she reached a small station. No name signs. A train stood here, evidently kept back for troops; somebody had chalked 'WELCOME HOME BEF' on the side of a wagon. It made sense that once you had the troops back you would rush them inland, away from the dangers of the coast. But there were no troops to be transported; the train stood idle.
She got to a sea road and turned left, following the line of the coast. To her right the sea lay steel grey and calm, glimmering with highlights, studded with boats. The tide was low, and there was a beach of shingle and rocks, covered by tangles of wire and big concrete cubes. These coastal works were just the outer crust of an entire country turning into a fortress, with hundreds of miles of coastline reinforced, and elaborate systems of defences reaching far inland. The beach just ran on as far as she could see, curving gently into a bay ahead of her, to the east. Hastings had a harbour, but there was no harbour here; she wasn't in Hastings.
She wasn't sure what to do. She'd driven non-stop from London. She was stiff and thirsty and, having had little sleep, was conking out.
She parked the car roughly at the beach side of the road and clambered out. It was about noon now. The light of the sun, the salty sea air hit her like a strong gin. The coast road was busy with vehicles, and there were plenty of the uniforms she had got used to in London – Army khaki, the Navy's deep blue, the lighter slate blue of the RAF, and women in the uniforms of the ATS, the Auxiliary Territorial Service, or the Navy Wrens.
She walked a little way along the beach. Signs ordered civilians to keep off, and warned that the shingle was mined. And if she looked out to sea, this brilliant summer day, she could actually see the war in Europe, the glint of aircraft swooping low, and she heard the distant crump of guns. A pall of smoke rose up, towering, remote. She found herself noting her impressions for when she next filed some copy. She had barely ventured out of London since the day war had been declared back in September. She tried to imagine this scene being played out in her own homeland, the Atlantic coast fortified in this way.
But the evacuation was in progress too. In the deeper water Navy ships glided, blue-grey silhouettes, while smaller ships filed steadily towards France and back again, trawlers, drifters, crabbers, shrimpers, fishing smacks, a few lifeboats, and many yachts and small motorboats. Big barges lumbered, emblazoned with the name 'Pickfords', intended to haul cargo around the coast. Some of the beach line had been cleared so the boats could ground, the barbed wire cut and pulled back, the tank traps shoved aside. Waiting on the shingle there were stretcher parties, she saw, and the WVS, the Women's Voluntary Service, had set out tables done out with little Union flags and signs saying 'WELCOME HOME OUR BOYS'. Tea boiled in huge urns, and sandwiches piled up on plates. But the tea went undrunk, the sandwiches uneaten.
This was Operation Dynamo, the evacuation from France. The BBC had been playing this up all night, the little ships of England sailing to France to help the Navy bring home a defeated army. But the little ships were, shockingly, coming back empty.
'You can't park here, madam.' She turned to face a man, quite young, in a heavy black jacket and a tin hat that looked like a relic of the Great War. He had a rifle, a canvas gas-mask pouch slung over his shoulder, and an armband with 'ARP' stitched into it. Air Raid Precautions, another of Britain's new volunteer armies. 'We're trying to keep the beaches clear, and the run into town.'
'Yes, I can see that. I'm sorry. Look-'
'And you ought to have your gas-mask with you.'
'Well, it's in the car.'
'The rule is, carry it at all times.' His accent was what she thought of as neutral English; he sounded quite well educated. He was looking at her more closely now, suspiciously. 'May I ask what you're doing here? You seem lost.'
'I'm trying to get to Hastings. My son is coming home with the BEF, or I hope he is.'
'And you don't know where Hastings is?'
She tried to keep a lid on her temper. 'I don't even know where I am. Look, if you could just point me at Hastings-'
'Where are you from? Canada? I know there are Canadian units in the BEF.'
'No, I'm American. Easy mistake to make.'
His eyes narrowed and he stepped towards her. He limped slightly; maybe that was what had kept him from the call-up. 'No need for that tone, madam. You're in Bexhill.' He pointed east, along the coast road. 'Hastings is a few miles thataway. Just keep on through Saint Leonard's and you can't miss it.'
'Thanks.' She hurried back to her car.
In her rear-view mirror she could see him stand there and watch her pull out. She reminded herself that she was at the besieged coast of a country where there was a strong suspicion that the enemy wasn't just coming but might already be here, in one disguise or another. He fixed his helmet and continued his patrol along the sea front.
It was a straightforward drive east, though the coast road was crowded with trucks and buses and other transports, and, ominously, ambulances.
She came into another town. She saw a pier, with boats clustered around its great feet. The pier had been severed so it couldn't be used by invading Germans. She kept pushing forward until the road passed the base of a hill, a stratified cliff on which sprawled the ruins of a castle. This was a seaside town, with hotels and a bandstand. She saw no children around on this summer Saturday. All evacuated inland, no doubt, because of the invasion scare. Still, it was eerie. And ahead of her an unlikely sight loomed, a school of tremendous silvery fish straining on tense cables into the air. They were barrage balloons; evidently air attacks were expected.
Soon she saw a harbour wall jutting out to sea. But she wasn't able to reach the harbour itself, for the coast road was blocked. Uniforms swarmed everywhere. Once more at a loss she turned inland, scanning for information points and police officers.
She passed an open space that seemed to have been set up as a medical triage centre for refugees, where bewildered-looking civilians were tended to by kindly nurses and other volunteers. A white-coated doctor sat with one woman, gently trying to prise something from her. As she drove past, Mary saw that it was an arm, the severed arm of a child, blackened and burned. The sight bewildered Mary. She was supposed to be a journalist, at least pro tem. How could she write about this?
She came to yet another hold-up, ahead of a piece of wasteland. This was the anchor point for one of the barrage balloons. The steel-grey monster, an envelope of hydrogen sixty feet long, loomed quite low over the rooftops, in the middle of being deployed. It was tethered to the ground by thick steel cables, and its crew was struggling to control the cables' release from massive winches. Most of them were women, straining and sweating, in the colours of the ATS, the Wrens, and a few WAAFs, the Women's Auxiliary Air Force. An officer, male, stood by, steadily counting to give the crew rhythm as they heaved. Mary stared, amazed at the sight of this miniature zeppelin rising up from the streets of this seaside town.
One of the WAAFs lost her hat as Mary watched, and bright red hair tumbled loose. Mary thought she knew who she was. She parked hastily, ignoring the shouts of yet another ARP warden, and she got out of the car and ran forward. 'Hilda! Hilda Tanner!'
The young WAAF turned. Mary waved, still pushing forward. The WAAF had a word with the officer, and he released her from the crew with a brisk nod. Hilda picked up her cap, crammed her red hair beneath it, and hurried towards Mary.
Mary felt relief gush. It wasn't Gary, but it was one step closer. 'Hilda? Look, you don't know me. We haven't met. I only knew you from the photographs-'
Hearing her accent, Hilda evidently guessed who Mary was. 'You're Gary's mother.'
'He did speak of you, and how he'd met you here – I was stuck in London, you see – and then the
