Beyond the private acres the land was common to all.
“The commons will be just as wild as it is now,” Ennis said, forwarding through photos of bears, deer, moose, and grouse, “and available to all. Beargrass residents can hike on it, camp on it, hunt on it if they want to.”
That got Joe’s attention.
“Don’t worry,” Ennis said impatiently, as if he had been anticipating Joe’s reaction, “everything will be by the book, in accordance with state law. Hunting licenses, all of that crap. But here’s the kicker,” he said, advancing the presentation quickly through drawings of barns, corrals, and a pasture so green it burned Joe’s eyes.
“This is where the stock is born, raised, and eventually slaughtered. Each resident will contract for a number of animals—pigs, chickens, goats, sheep, cattle—to be cared for by the staff. The stock animals will receive the best of care and will be rotated on our pastures. They’ll be raised holistically, organically, with no growth hormones, chemicals, or processed feed. If the residents want to get involved, they can. I suspect most of them will want to be a part of that.”
On cue, Pete Illoway stood up and Ennis handed him the remote in a wellpracticed way.
“Time for lunch,” Illoway said.
The lights came up and a double door opened behind the screen. Joe could see a whiteclad waiter and waitress, both Hispanic, push serving carts through the gloom. A platter filled with sizzling meats and colorful vegetables was placed in front of him.
Joe said, “Wow.”
“Make sure to sample everything,” Illoway said, sitting down to his own platter and rattling his silverware.
Joe cut off slices of each kind of meat. The beef was tougher than he expected, but it exploded with flavor. The pork burst with sharp juices. The chicken tasted slightly wild, with a tang of pine nuts.
“What do you think?” Illoway asked, knowing the answer.
“Everything is fantastic,” Joe said.
“Have you ever had beef or chicken that tasted like that?”
“Beef, yes,” Joe said, explaining that his family purchased beef in quarters or halves direct from Bill Stafford’s ranch outside Saddlestring when they could afford to do so.
“Chicken, no.”
Illoway nodded. “Not many people have the experience you have with beef, so they’re blown away by this. And very few contemporary Americans know what a chicken can taste like that’s been raised naturally, with a freerange lifestyle with no hormones or chemicals introduced.”
“Here we go with the lecture,” Ennis sighed. Joe smiled at that.
Illoway cut another piece of beef and stabbed it with his fork, then pointed the fork toward Joe. “Modern Americans have almost totally lost touch with the natural world,” he said. “They don’t know where their food comes from. They think their meat comes from a Styrofoam package wrapped with plastic or from the kitchen of a restaurant. This has been one of the most fundamental and harmful shifts that has ever taken place in our culture. The connection between our food source and ourselves has been lost, and we’re not the better for it.
“Think about it, Joe,” Illoway continued. “For centuries, human beings have interacted with their source of food. We herded animals, cared for them, bred them to be stronger and better suited for the world. Or we hunted them in their own environment, and therefore had to learn about them and appreciate them. In turn, we learned from our animals that there is a circle of life, interconnectivity with nature and our environment. This was hardwired into our souls, this synchronicity of coexistence. We depended on our animals to provide us with nourishment and health; they depended on us for shelter and protection.
“Enlightened people are becoming aware of how unethical, how soulless, our farms and ranches have become—if you can even call them farms and ranches.” Illoway paused dramatically. “They’re really just meat factories, where animals are packed together, forcefed and filled with growth hormones, then killed without ever living a natural life.
Chickens have their beaks snipped off so they can’t hurt each other. Cattle are crammed into stalls and fattened.
Modern hog farms are worse than any concentration camp ever even conceived by man.” To illustrate his point, Illoway advanced through a series of grotesque blackandwhite photos of hogs festering with sores, beakless chickens, rivers of black blood coursing through troughs at a cattle slaughterhouse. At last, Joe thought, the photos ran out and the screen was filled with pure blue.
Illoway jabbed the piece of meat into his mouth and reached into a folder in front of him, producing the World’s First Sustainable Good Meat Community brochure Joe had seen earlier. He slid it across the table. Joe nearly missed it, thinking how odd it was that Illoway was capable of eating after showing those pictures.
“This explains the philosophy of Beargrass Village in detail,” Illoway said. “I really urge you to read it. I’ve also got two books and a website.”
Joe put the brochure in his file.
“The idea here,” Illoway said, “is to create an environment where families can regain their connection to the natural world, to the food they eat. They’ll be able to participate in the birthing of the animals, the care of the animals, even the eventual slaughter of the animals. We’ll have our own organic slaughterhouse onsite with viewing windows.”
Joe winced.
“I know it sounds crazy,” Ennis said, noting Joe’s reaction, “but these people do this. I saw it in upstate New York a few years ago. Some friends of mine—wealthy Manhattanites who had gone the vegan route for a while until they were too lethargic to stand, then did all kinds of stupid diets and eating programs—took me to a farm in Connecticut. They called it a ‘pure meat farm.’ You know, all of the animals were raised in a pasture, eating natural stuff, even the goddamned chickens were running around. It was like something out of the eighteen eighties up there. And these friends of mine were just ecstatic. They named the cows they were going to have slaughtered, and got all emotional when they were killed and butchered, but they told me that for the first time in their lives they were connected to the real world. So I looked into it, and met Pete here, who started the whole idea. This was
