I passed on dinner with Harry, even though it was Friday night. I picked up a chicken breast at the grocery and left it marinating in a mango sauce while I went for a swim. I felt the heat of the pavement rising up through the cheap plastic of my slippas and crossed Lili‘uokalani to walk on the shady side of the street. There wasn’t a hint of a trade wind, and the palm trees at Kuhio Beach Park stood still. The air was heavy with humidity, sweat, and the smell of seaweed washed up on the shore at high tide.
I jumped in the ocean hoping it would be cool, but it was warm as bathwater until I swam out beyond the shallow breakers. I finally hit a pocket of cold water and it stunned me, raising goose bumps on my arms. It was as if I’d forgotten what cold felt like.
I swam for almost an hour but didn’t see Tim, and then went home and grilled the chicken breast on my barbecue, cutting a green pepper into slices and roasting them until their skins charred. I drank a macadamia nut brown ale in a twenty-two-ounce bottle with dinner, turned the ceiling fan on high, and relaxed for what seemed like the first time in days. It was a brief jump back into my old life, the one where I knew what was going on.
I slept late the next morning, a treat I almost never allowed myself, and it felt great to be able to look at the clock, smile, and then just roll over. I finally got up around nine-thirty, made myself macadamia nut pancakes, and then got back into bed with a surfing magazine.
The phone rang around eleven, and I half hoped it was Tim Ryan, and then worried he’d be canceling our surfing lesson. It was Terri Gonsalves, and she was crying. “Okay,” I said. “It can’t be so bad. Just tell me what’s wrong.”
“This morning I told Evan that I wanted him to take back the bracelet he gave me, that it was too nice a present. He said he couldn’t.”
“Yeah?”
“He said he’d been doing some private security work, just like you said. A jewelry dealer visiting Honolulu who needed somebody to go along with him. For payment, he gave Evan the bracelet.”
“So what’s wrong?”
“He’s lying, Kimo, I know he is. I didn’t believe him, and he got mad, and he walked out.” In the background I heard her son come into the room. To him, she said, “It’s okay, Danny. Sometimes Daddy and Mommy get mad at each other. Why don’t you go to your room and play for a while, and then Mommy will come and get you?”
She came back on the phone, speaking softly. “I just don’t know what to do.”
“He can’t take back what he’s already done, however he got the bracelet. Just tell him not to do any more. Whatever he’s into, you have to say it doesn’t matter, you just want him to stop. I’d offer to talk to him myself, Terri, but you know we’re walking a fine line here. I don’t want to find out anything I don’t want to know.”
“I understand,” she said. “All right, I’ll tell him.”
“Good girl. Call me whenever you need to.”
I hung up, and then paced around the apartment for a while. I thought about Evan, about the growing list of ways he might be connected to Tommy Pang. Was the bracelet he gave Terri what Derek had seen his father give to the nameless cop? Had Evan been the leak on the black tar bust? I didn’t want to call Akoni and ruin his weekend; if indeed Evan was our guy, he would still be around on Monday morning.
It was a gorgeous day, too nice to stay cooped up inside, so I went for a walk, all the way through Waikiki past Fort DeRussy, to the Ala Moana Center, where I turned around and walked all the way back. It was wonderful to turn my brain off, just concentrate on the walk and the world around me.
When I got back there was a message on my machine from Peggy Kaneahe. I returned her call, and we talked about a case that was keeping her swamped. A pair of petty thieves had stolen some rare and valuable artifacts from the Bishop Museum, but were refusing to name their fence. She was sure they were part of a bigger plan to smuggle Hawaiian art treasures out of the country, and was frustrated because they wouldn’t cooperate.
“You sound beat,” I said. “Would you rather skip tonight?”
She paused. “You wouldn’t mind? I just, I need to, I guess, just relax.”
“Sure. Read a book tonight, or watch TV. We’ll talk next week.”
“You’re sweet, Kimo,” she said. “Aloha.”
I felt lucky, and guilty at the same time. I puttered around until just three o’clock, when Tim Ryan rang my bell, and as we walked down Lili‘uokalani toward the beach together, I gave him a brief lesson on surfing. “Light winds cause ripples out in deep water. The water molecules travel in stationary circles as these ripples travel over them, gradually getting stronger and becoming waves. As that wave hits the coral reef, its height and speed increase. That’s when the surfer jumps on and rides.”
“So that’s why some beaches are better for surfing than others,” Tim said. “Because they have different reef configurations.”
“Exactly.” We dropped our towels on the beach and swam out beyond the breakers, me dragging one end of my board. “Now we wait,” I said, once we were in position. There were more surfers around than I liked; that’s why I usually surfed so early in the morning or late in the day. On a beach like Waikiki, where there weren’t very many good waves, you didn’t want to have to compete for them with too many other surfers. I even saw Alvy Greenberg down the beach and waved at him.
“How do you know when the right wave is coming?” Tim asked.
“You can’t explain it,” I said. “You just have to feel it. Let’s hang out here and just let a bunch of waves wash over us.”
So we did. I relaxed, treading water and holding onto one end of my board, Tim on the other. We felt the waves, and watched the other surfers. “That wasn’t a good choice for him,” I said, pointing to one guy as he fell off his board. “See, there wasn’t enough power to sustain him.” We watched another and I said, “His balance is off. He’s going to fall,” and sure enough, he did.
“You jinxed him,” Tim said, with a smile.
“Surfing is hard. Nobody gets it right the first time.” After a while, I felt a really good wave building under us. “Get on the board,” I said, and I held it down a little in the water as he put one leg over. “Now crouch up toward the front.” As he did so, I swung myself onto the board, too, just behind him, not crouching but straddling the board with my legs in the water. The board rode lower in the water than usual, because of the extra weight, but if the wave was as strong as I thought, it would carry us.
“Hold on.” The wave started to carry us forward, and I paddled fast to help it. When it really had us, I stopped paddling, pulled myself into a quick crouch, and then stood up. Tim was still crouched beneath me, holding the sides of the board. “Stand up,” I yelled, over the roar of the water. “Don’t worry, I’ve got you.”
I held his shoulders, and then slid my hands down to his waist as he stood. He had good balance, especially with me holding him. “Wow,” he yelled, as we knifed through the water, the beach and high rise hotels rushing toward us, salt spray and sun and the noise of the water and the clear exhilaration of it all.
As the wave started to die, I moved back into a crouch, pulling Tim down with me. We lost our balance then and took a spill, but the water was shallow and the coolness felt great. I was surprised to find, as I came up for air, that the ride had given me an erection. Fortunately, it was already subsiding. “So?” I asked, as Tim appeared beside me. “You like?”
“That was amazing. I see why you like it. Can we do it again?”
“Let’s get you a board.” We headed down the beach toward one of the rental concessions. “The widest, longest boards are best for beginners,” I said. “They catch the waves earlier, and you get a chance to get accustomed to the wave before it gets too steep.” My board was six feet long, made of fiberglass and resin and specially cut, shaved and sanded by hand to my own instructions. His was a regulation beginner board, dinged up and bruised, and looked like a big fat older brother to mine.
We practiced for an hour or so, spending a lot of time just hanging out beyond the breakers, waiting for the right waves. Every now and then we’d see Alvy but I never did speak to him. By the end of the hour, Tim was starting to get a feel for which wave to choose, and he’d mastered all the beginning steps: getting on the board, paddling fast to catch the wave, standing up. He couldn’t ride for very long without taking a tumble, but that would come with time and practice.
Finally we quit and returned his board. “I’ll bet you’re kind of achy,” I said. “Your muscles really take a beating when you first start surfing.”
“You’re not kidding. I want to go directly home and tumble into the hot tub.” He looked over at me. “Want to come?”
