was the old days, you would concur on this, Jim.”
“Get to the meat, Johnny.”
“We go back out to the bar. I tell him this freeze is so serious, I’ve got to cop more. How can I get my hands on some quantity?”
“Kim and the boys, right?”
He nodded. “Let me tell it, man. The bartender, he’s juiced now, he’s my buddy. He tells me that it was my friend Kim that sold him the shit.”
“Where are they?”
“This bartender was too small-time to take on quantities. There was another guy, though, a surf rat by the name of Charlie Fiora who used to work with Kim at Casa Grande. He’s got his own gig now down the coast, a little bar called the Wall. He’s the one that Kim and Eddie and your boy Broda went to see to sell their supply to.”
“Where?” I said.
“Wrightsville Beach.” He took a swig and looked at me out of the corner of his eye.
I slapped the steering wheel as we pulled into the lot of the Arizona. “Good job, man.”
“I know,” he said.
In our room I laid out maps and ferry schedules. McGinnes tapped out some lines on the mirror he had removed from the wall.
“You want a blast?”
“No,” I said. But like any former cokehead, I really did.
He did a couple that had the width of fingers. “Let’s go out and have a few.”
“Not tonight. We’ve got a shitload of miles to travel in the morning.”
“Wrightsville’s down there.”
“You want to go, go ahead. My keys are on the dresser.”
“I think I will,” he said. “For a short one.”
“Thanks for tonight, Johnny.”
“No sweat,” he said casually. “See you in the A.M. ” He took my keys off the dresser and twirled them on his finger. He was coughing as he bolted out the door.
TWENTY-ONE
Crossing Whalebone junction, we passed the sign for Cape Hatteras National Seashore and blew down Route 12 very early the next morning. The sun sprayed over the dunes to our left, highlighting sea oats and myrtle.
We rolled our windows down as the dawn chill faded, and sipped our coffee from Styrofoam cups. I had a neo-country tape playing in the deck-Golden Palominos, Dwight Yoakam, T Bone Burnett, and Costello, with some Merle Haggard and Johnny Cash thrown in for tradition.
McGinnes was singing along to what he knew, and laughed at my voice as I joined him on the occasional odd chorus. The lines around his eyes crinkled out from behind his aviators.
“This is beautiful!” he said emotionally, his arm straight out the window, his palm catching the wind.
“‘Everything Is Beautiful,’” I said.
“Ray Stevens, right? Worst Top Ten song ever recorded.”
“Right about Ray Stevens. Wrong about the honors. They go to ‘Daddy, Don’t You Walk So Fast’ by Wayne Newton. That’s the worst song to crack the Top Ten.”
“You mean, ‘Daddy, Don’t You Hump So Fast,’ don’t you?”
“Whatever you say, Johnny.”
Soon we were on the Herbert C. Bonner Bridge over the Oregon Inlet. Scores of trawlers and charter boats were heading out into the ocean. On the other side of the bridge lay the Pea Island Refuge, where flocks of snow geese and shorebirds flew by at regular intervals. Egrets laced the wetlands to our right.
We drove through the nearly empty beachtowns of Rodanthe, Waves, and Salvo, then cruised a long stretch along the coast to Avon and beyond. Near Buxton, McGinnes had me stop at a windsurfing mecca on the soundside called Canadian Hole. He peed on the grass next to my car while I watched the brightly colored sails and their boards ripping across the chop. Then we pulled back onto the highway.
We stopped once more to fill the cooler in the town of Hatteras, then raced to the end of the highway to make the ferry. I pulled into spot number nineteen just as the khaki-uniformed park employees began to board the cars.
We were directed to an area behind a North Carolina Christian Academy school bus, where a tan woman wedged wooden blocks beneath my front tires. A fully restored black and white Chevy with red interior parked to our right. The New Jersey vanity plates read “57 Love.” The driver was bearded and fat and wore an Alf T- shirt.
“Let’s get out and enjoy it,” McGinnes said, as the ferry finished loading and pulled away from the dock.
The crowd was an October mixture of elderly couples, young parents with preschool children, and a few tradesmen heading over to the island for work. The tourists began to congregate at the bow, where a woman was throwing bread to a few gulls. Those few gulls turned to dozens very quickly and stayed with the ferry for the entire trip. s threight='0em' width='27'› McGinnes brought out two beers and handed one to me. I had intended to remain dry that day, but the weather was gorgeous, the final brilliant display of the long Carolina season. I took off my shirt, sat on the hood of my car, put my feet up on the iron rail, and popped the can.
McGinnes drifted away and struck up a conversation with a group of young men standing around a Bronco that had surf rods stuck in tubes mounted around the front fender. I folded my arms and enjoyed my beer and the view.
Forty minutes later we approached the island. The ferry ran parallel to the shore, which was crowded with all-terrain vehicles and fishermen, some of whom were throwing out nets. The family next to me waved at an old man motoring by in a Chris Craft, who waved back, mimicking them playfully. Finally we docked with a thud against the rubber-wrapped pilings.
We drove off the ferry and onto Ocracoke Island. The terrain was flat and covered with shrubs of myrtle, the two-lane road shoulderless and sandy. Many of the cars ahead turned off at beach access trails or state-run campgrounds.
The drive to the other end of the island took only ten minutes. But when we arrived, the Cedar Island ferry was full, and the next available was two hours away. I bought tickets and walked back to the car.
“Don’t worry about it,” McGinnes said. “We made good time getting down here. Let’s relax, drive back to the village. I saw a place there.”
We turned the car around and headed back up the road, where McGinnes directed me into the lot of what looked like an old house on pilings. The small gray sign, camouflaged against the gray house it hung on, read “Jacko’s Grille.”
“You coming?” he asked, out of the car before it stopped.
I shook my head. “I think I’ll grab a swim. I’ll swing back and pick you up.” He waved me off and ran up the wooden stairs.
I drove to a small turnoff that I had noticed earlier, a place with no facilities and no tourists. I changed into shorts and walked on a path through the shrubs, over a barrier dune, and out onto a wide, white beach.
On my trek to the shoreline there were sandcrabs and shells and no footprints. The swells were small, like those in a bay. I walked out in two feet of water for what seemed like quite a distance. Small fish moved around my feet. I reached deeper water and swam, then walked along the beach until I neared a group of fishermen. I turned and walked back, stopping occasionally to put the more interesting stones and shells in my swimtrunk pockets. Some high clouds drifted in the sky but they never neared the sun.
I changed back into jeans and drove back to the bar. Inside were picnic tables and a jukebox and a small selection of domestic beer. McGinnes was talking to and drinking with a couple of old-timers. I ordered a burger and a beer and took them both out back to the screened-in deck that overlooked the wetlands and the Pamlico Sound.
The Cedar Island ferry was a two-hour trip. I grabbed the opportunity to nap on the hood of my car in the wa
