JOHN BETJEMAN FIRST AND LAST LOVES

Dedicated to the memory of GERALD HAYNES Schoolmaster of Lynam’s, Oxford, who first opened my eyes to architecture

CONTENTS

Title Page

Dedication

List of Illustrations

Acknowledgements

LOVE IS DEAD

1 WINTER AT HOME

2 BOURNEMOUTH

3 CHELTENHAM

4 ABERDEEN GRANITE

5 LEEDS—A CITY OF CONTRASTS

6 THE ISLE OF MAN

7 ANTIQUARIAN PREJUDICE

8 THE ARCHITECTURE OF ENTERTAIN MENT

9 LONDON RAILWAY STATIONS

10 NONCONFORMIST ARCHITECTURE

11 1837–1937

THE DRIFT TOWARDS UGLINESS

THE LAST DAYS OF TRADITION

THE MORRIS MOVEMENT

12 VICTORIAN ARCHITECTURE

ILLUSTRATED NOTES TO VICTORIAN ARCHITECTURE

13 THREE CHURCHES

BLISLAND, CORNWALL

MILDENHALL, WILTS

ST. MARK’S, SWINDON

14 COAST AND COUNTRY

VENTNOR

IN AND AROUND FRESHWATER, I.O.W.

HAYLING ISLAND

LYNDHURST

WEYMOUTH

SIDMOUTH

LOOE

ST. ENDELLION

PORT ISAAC

PADSTOW

ILFRACOMBE

CLEVEDON

HIGHWORTH

INDEX

About the Author

Copyright

ILLUSTRATIONS

Cheltenham Panorama by John Piper

Nonconformist Chapels by John Piper

1 Friars’ Street, Ipswich

2 Underbank Stennington, nr Sheffield

3 Unitarian Chapel, Bury St Edmunds

4 Cote Baptist Chapel, nr Bampton, Oxon

5 Lady Huntingdon Chapel, Worcester

6 Louth, Lincolnshire, Methodist

7 Blockley, Gloucestershire

8 Swaffham, Norfolk

9 Market Harborough, Leicestershire

10 Oundle

11 Donhead, Wiltshire

12 Blaenconin

13 Belgelley, Pembrokeshire

14 Between Cardigan and Aberayron

15 Kilgelley, Pembrokeshire

16 Near Cardigan

17 Mawgan-in-Meneage, Cornwall, exterior

18 Mawgan-in-Meneage, Cornwall, interior

19 Tisbury, Wiltshire

20 Louth, Lincolnshire, Congregational

21 Legbourne, Lincolnshire

22 Broad Town, Wiltshire

23 Great Yarmouth

South London, 1872, from Gustave Doré’s London (1872)

King’s Cross Station, 1851, from Fergusson’s History of the Modern  Styles of Architecture (3rd edition, Murray, 1891)

York Central Station, c. 1890, from an old photograph

St. George’s Hall, Liverpool, 1841, from Monumental Classical  Architecture in Great Britain and Ireland by A. E. Richardson  (Batsford, 1914)

National Provincial Bank, Sunderland, 1878, from the Building  News (1879)

Catholic Apostolic Church, Gordon Square, London, 1855, from  The Catholic Apostolic Church, Gordon Square by J. Malcolm Lickfold (1935)

Lancing Chapel, Sussex, 1854–1870, from the Building News  (1877)

The Rathaus, Hamburg, 1878, by Sir Gilbert Scott, from the Building News

Alternative Design for the Rathaus, Hamburg, by Sir Gilbert  Scott, from the Building News

St. John the Evangelist, Red Lion Square, London, 1874–1878,  from the Building News (1879)

University Museum, Oxford, 1852–1855, from The History of the  Gothic Revival by C. Eastlake (1872)

Drawings for Cardiff Castle, 1865, from Transactions of the  R.I.B.A. (vol. 1, New Series, 1885)

William Burges’s House, Melbury Road, Kensington, 1870–1881,  from The House of William Burges by R. P. P. Pullan (1883)

All Saints, Margaret Street, London, 1849–1850, from The  Builder

Drawing for Keble College Chapel, Oxford, 1876.A drawing  from Butterfield’s office, by permission of the Warden and  Fellows of Keble College

St. Columba’s, Haggerston, London, 1867–1869, from the Building News

Cuddesdon Theological College, Oxford, 1853–1854, from the Building News

Sketch of Saint-Julien, Brioude, France, by G. E. Street, from The Transactions of the R.I.B.A. (1889)

Bristol Cathedral, restored 1868–1888, from The Builder (1878)

Manchester Town Hall, 1877, from New Town Hall, Manchester, ed. William E. A. Axon (1878)

New Zealand Chambers, London, 1872, from the Building News (1873)

Design for Devonshire Street, E.C.2, 1877, from the Building News

Charlemont House, Dublin, c.1773, from Views of the most  remarkable Public Buildings, Monuments and other Edifices in the City of Dublin by Robert Pool and John Cash (1780)

“Wispers,” Midhurst, Sussex, 1875, from Transactions of the  R.I.B.A. (vol. 1, 1885)

House in North Oxford, 1870, from the Building News (1870)

Hostelry, Bedford Park, London, 1878, from the Building News (1880)

Cottage at Rochdale, 1895, from Academy Architecture

St. Agnes, Kennington, 1877, from The Builder

Mission Church, 1875, from the Building News

Church of the Holy Angels, Hoar Cross, 1877, from The Builder (1877)

Church of the Holy Redeemer, Clerkenwell, 1888, drawing by  Gerald Horsley from In Memoriam J. D. Sedding (1892)

Design for a Church by Edgar Wood, from Architecture (1897)

St. Wilfrid’s, Harrogate, 1909, from the Building News (1910)

Westminster Cathedral, designed 1895, drawing by J. F. Bentley  from the Librarian of the R.I.B.A.

Examination Schools, Oxford, 1876, from the Building News

Royal Holloway College, Englefield Green, Surrey, finished 1886, from the Transactions of the R.I.B.A. (vol. 3, New Series, 1887)

Design for “A West End Club House,” 1880, from the Building  News (1882)

The Hill House, Helensburgh, 1906, drawing by C. R. Mackintosh from Academy Architecture

Design for a Market Hall, 1901, from the Architectural Review

St. Cyprian’s, Baker Street, 1900, photograph by Dell and Wainwright

St. Philip’s, Cosham, 1937, photograph by J. Bucknall

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

I AM greatly indebted to Myfanwy Piper for making this collection of essays and talks about architecture and places. She read through many pages of dead papers, yellowing typescripts and periodicals, and with her sure critical perception weeded out much that was topical, sentimental, journalistic, pretentious and dull. Even so she has left you with plenty to complain about. But that is my fault, not hers. On reading through the page proofs, I was horrified at the patronising way I have written about Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, some of whose work I am only just beginning to appreciate. I must explain too that the overlapping which occurs in the articles “Victorian Architecture” and the “Illustrated Notes” which follow was not an oversight. It was not possible to cut either without altering what little meaning they have. So readers should read one or the other, but not necessarily both.

I am very grateful to my friend Mr. Piper for doing the illustrations for the Nonconformist Chapels and for making a drawing of his lithograph of Cheltenham, both tasks specially undertaken for this book. The Editors of the Architectural Review, Signature, The Studio, Vogue and World Review kindly gave me permission to reprint certain articles. The

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