Next he resolved to visit Syria. Therefore the Franks crossed the hills of Judea at Hebron, visiting a mosque built over the cave of Machpelah. Here lie entombed the earthly remnants of Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, Joseph, Sarah, and Rebecca. Thence to the valley where Sodom and Gomorrah were consumed by flame. Here is a vast lake called the Dead Sea because it does not move, although some call it Asphaltite because now and again asphalt floats to the surface. Sodom and Gomorrah are thought to be submerged in its depths. The length of this accursed lake is five hundred and eighty stades. No animals come to drink, nor any bird. Fulcher asserts that he made a trial of the water, getting down from his mule to cup a little in his hand, finding it bitter as hellebore. The Jordan empties into this lake. Next to it rises a mountain white as snow from which rocks made of salt break off and tumble to the base. Rainfall streaming through ravines carries this salt into the lake. Or perhaps there exists some channel underground by which the salt sea enters. The truth is not known.
Close by is the village of Segor, happily situated, abounding in palm fruit that is sweet to taste. Baldwin’s army spent a day eating this fruit because they could find little else, the Saracens having all vanished except some people dark as soot who harvested seaweed from the lake. Here the Franks encountered another fruit with a thick rind or husk, but when the shell was broken they saw nothing inside, nothing save black dust. Some construed this as a warning.
Next they rode through the valley where Moses twice struck a rock and brought forth good water, enough to supply Israel. On a summit where the oracles of God were given to our fathers stands a church. Baldwin entered to pray and his army drank from the fountain of refutation. Beyond, as far as Babylon, this land is said to be uncultivated and desolate. Baldwin decided he had seen enough. Passing by that lifeless sea and the tombs of patriarchs, by the tomb where Rachel lies, he returned to Jerusalem on the exact day of the winter solstice.
Latin documents assert that when Baldwin was a youth he nourished his spirit on liberal arts. He became a cleric, holding prebends in churches of Cambrai, Liège, and Reims. Later, troubled at heart, he became a soldier. Anon he married the English lady Godehilde and with her at his side he chose to follow his brothers Godfrey and Eustace. He is alleged to have been tall and dignified, larger of frame than Godfrey, serious in aspect, oddly pale, with a reddish beard. He lived splendorously and had a gold shield with the image of an eagle borne ahead of him as though he were some infidel potentate. If he entered a village there were knights to blow trumpets in front of his chariot. He wore a mantle or toga, making him resemble a bishop more than a soldier, and took his meals seated on a rug while accepting homage from admirers. Yet he inherited the curse of Adam, struggling mightily against cravings of the flesh. Withal, none but a few servants understood the frequency of his habit for he was most circumspect. Should one seek to excuse King Baldwin’s lechery, as certain narratives do, justification mayhap is possible, if not at the bench of our strictest Judge.
Now, finding himself absolute, he prohibited Greek and Syriac rites in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Thereby he committed the sin of hubris for which Almighty God chastised him. Easter Sunday the lamps in the Sepulcher refused to burn. It is well known how pilgrims wait outside this most holy site during the vigil before Easter when lights are extinguished and the patriarch emerges bringing a new flame from the darkness of our Savior’s tomb. Hence this is both miracle and reality, visible sign of our central mystery, the Resurrection. None in the Latin world could say when this began save that it was long ago, some think during the fourth century when pagan feet trampled Jerusalem. Unbelievers invaded Christian homes to stamp out fire, leaving ashes on the hearth, knowing this miracle must be a consequence of trickery. It is said they marched through the basilica with drawn swords to extinguish the light of Christianity. Still the passionate request of those who arrived to pray could not be denied, quickly the lamp was lighted. Old men avow that Turks once removed the wick, nevertheless light blazed anew in empty metal since nothing prevails against the truth. However that may be, when King Baldwin with his excess of pride forbade all but Frankish rites the lamps refused to burn. Nor could anyone make them burn again till those who had been dispossessed beseeched the Lord to forgive him. And so, when he understood, Baldwin restored these privileges.
During the second year of his reign a cavalcade of wealthy Arabs passed through outer Jordan. Baldwin at once crossed the river, falling upon them while they slept. Few escaped. Most died in their tents. Slaves, camels, booty, women
