City of Spies

Lisbon, I knew I would have a lot of research to do, but what I didn’t know was that this global city, rich in history and culture, would itself become one of the main characters in my debut novel.

While I’m particularly interested in Lisbon’s role during WW2, there is enough to do and see to intrigue history buffs, foodies, and anyone looking for a friendly, easy-to-access city for a long weekend.

Looking straight ahead is an easy way to miss some of the most interesting bits of any city, so look up at the architecture, down at the black-and-white mosaic paving stones, and around, where you’ll see the iconic blue tiles that Lisbon is famous for. You won’t be disappointed. Oh, and pack your trainers or comfy shoes. Lisbon is a walkable city, but your legs will definitely feel the workout at the end of the day!

All aboard Tram 28!

When friends from abroad visit me in London for the first time, my first suggestion is to take a ride on the hop-on/hop-off bus to get a feel for the city and explore some of the key landmarks. The best (and in some ways even better) equivalent in Lisbon is the little yellow Tram 28. The trams themselves are iconic, dating back to the 1930s. From the polished wooden benches you can see: the baroque Basilica da Estrela and the Jardim (garden) across the way; São Bento Palace (the Portuguese Parliament building); The Chiado (the nearby arts quarter); and the Praça Luís de Camões (the main plaza of Bairro Alto, the beating heart of Lisbon’s nightlife). You can also access the shopping areas in the Baixa, the Se Cathedral, and the Portas do Sol in the Alfama. This plaza has wonderful views, and is also the closest stop for the castle, but beware: it’s a steep walk uphill!

Walking through history at the ruined São Jorge Castle

For a history junkie like me, the castle is one of the most fascinating places in Lisbon. Evidence of people occupying the castle hill dates back to the Phoenicians in the 8^th century BC, and fortifications from the 1^st century BC. It was also occupied by the Carthaginians, Romans, a few Germanic tribes, and the Moors before the Portuguese reconquered it in 1147. The castle started to decline in importance in the 16^th century, and despite reconstruction projects introduced in later centuries, it is now largely in ruins. Catch a concert there if you can, but even if you can’t make one, it’s a fascinating place and the views over Lisbon and the Tagus are spectacular – particularly at sunset.

Fado in the Alfama District

Alfama is one of the oldest districts in Lisbon, running from the castle right down to the Tagus. It hosts the Lisbon Cathedral, the Convento da Graça, and a plethora of fado bars and restaurants. Fado, if you haven’t heard of it, is a haunting style of music where a solo singer is accompanied by a traditional Portuguese guitar. But Alfama isn’t the only place to hear fado; the last time we were in Lisbon, we followed a fellow diner’s recommendation and visited Senhor Vino’s – a casa do fado that wasn’t the easiest to find, but which was certainly worth the trip!

Eating and drinking in the Bairro Alto

The Bairro Alto benefitted from the urban regeneration of the later decades of the 20^th century and is now the beating heart of Lisbon’s nightlife with trendy bars, clubs and restaurants.

When you eat out in Lisbon, make sure to try the local dishes. Lisbon is a port famous for its fish and shellfish, with a culinary focus on spices that complement the food rather than heavy sauces, which makes sense considering Portugal’s former colonies. I can also highly recommend the local wines – and of course the after-dinner port. During our time there, we quickly ended up foregoing menus and relied on the recommendations of our servers and fellow diners, and were never disappointed. Also, make sure to try the delicious Portuguese pastéis de natas (custard tarts) before you leave – my other half was addicted to these.

The Rossio

The Rossio has been one of Lisbon’s main squares since the Middle Ages; a site for protests, bullfights and executions. While I’m pretty sure the latter two don’t happen there anymore, it is still a popular venue for protesters – and for Lisbonites and tourists, due to its proximity to cafes and restaurants. In the 1940s, the easy walk from the train station made it a gathering spot for refugees fleeing the war.

Looking down at the square you’ll see black and white cobblestones arranged in a wave pattern, and at the centre is a column dedicated to King Pedro IV. There are two beautiful baroque fountains on either side, the Dona Maria II National Theatre to the north.

Oh, and that train station? It had a ‘secret’ passageway to the Hotel Avenida next door which was only blocked up in the 1970s. Fascinating to imagine what went on there . . .

Be a culture vulture in the Chiado

Based in the historic centre of Lisbon, this picturesque neighbourhood hosts a number of art museums, theatres and galleries, including the National Museum of Contemporary Art in the former Covent of St Francis, the Teatro Nacional de São Carlos (the opera house) and the Archaeological Museum in the former Carmo Church.

Heading West

There are many things to see outside the city itself, so make time to explore some of the gems that the coastline has to offer.

Belém

A few stops west on the Metro from the Cais do Sodré is the district of Belém. Here you can visit two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the magnificent Jerónimos Monastery; and the nearby Tower of Belém, which served as the ceremonial gateway to Lisbon for Portuguese explorers embarking on or returning from their travels. These voyages are showcased in the Museum of Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos) which was built in 1960 in honour of the 500^th anniversary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator.

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