“I think I have a broken ankle at least. I was unconscious for a while but when I came to, I had this terrible pain in one ankle. I called out for help but no reply. This mist really deadens sound. I got my rope out somehow and managed to drive a piton into the cliff. Then I tied the rope to it to make a loop that I could sit in. I still hurt down one side and my head is painful where I hit the cliff so I don’t know what damage has been done there. The man below is still tied to me as I couldn’t hold him and transfer the rope.”
“Thanks,” Andy said. “We’ll get you up to the top and some help. Do you know anything about the man below you?” He got a shake of the head in reply. “Okay. I’m going back up so that we can organise the best way to get you up. Just hold on and we’ll be back.” With that, Andy started climbing back up to where he left the main rope. It took him a while as he was getting tired. He got back to the starting point and re-connected himself to the main rope and gave it three tugs. He was soon back up to the top and making his report.
Resting with his back against a rucksack and sipping a mug of soup, Andy explained that it may be possible for the third man to be pulled to the top without him being carried. “He has a good leg and his arms are okay so that he should be able to ward himself off the cliff-face as he is being pulled up. Then whoever goes down could stay down and go and look for the fourth person. How is the Major?”
“He fell asleep after the painkillers took effect. He seems to be resting comfortably at present,” said Joe Morris.
He went on, “I’m not sure how we can dress a broken ankle. It may be better to leave his boot on and try and use something as a couple of splints to hold boot and leg rigid.”
“Okay, let’s focus on getting him up first and finding out about the fourth man,” said Bradley. “Stan, how are you feeling? If you are up to it, then it would be better to send you down because you are familiar with what is down there. If not, one of the others will need to be briefed and go down.”
“I’ll go down, Flight,” said Stan. “Others can go down to bring up the dead person.” He got a nod in reply. Stan spent a few minutes with Andy checking the different details and then got himself and his equipment ready to go down again. By this time the mist was starting to thin a little as a slight breeze stirred the air. It could still be quite some time before it dispersed. The time was now 13:15 hours.
“Okay, I’m ready to go down. Let’s get on with it. The rest of the team went to their places and the rope was steadily paid out and Stan abseiled down the cliff. He paused at the bulge to check the piton and the rope tied to it. All was well. Stan continued down, going past the dead man and reaching the no. 3 man. “Okay, sir, we are going to get you up. I’m going to tie this rope to you and they’ll pull you up on your own. Keep facing the cliff-face and use your good leg to keep away from it as you are pulled up. You should be okay. I’m going to transfer myself to your piton and then wait to be lifted to the top.
“Don’t call me sir. My name is Phil. Where’s the other man?” Stan was asked.
“He is resting after previous efforts but he’s okay. The man above you is dead so don’t try to stop and check him. We need to get you to the top and receive some treatment,” Stan told him. “First, we need to transfer the rope holding the man below you to the piton. Untie your main rope and hold onto your loop cradle for a minute while we do the transfers.” Phil did as he was told. Stan tied Garasov’s rope to himself and the other end to the piton. Then he untied the main rope and tied it to Phil. Having done that, he took the strain on the rope holding the fourth man while Phil untied it from himself and tied it to the piton. “Okay, I think we are ready,” said Stan. Giving the main rope three tugs he said, “Up you go, Phil,” and Phil was quickly pulled up and disappeared into the mist.
Waiting for a signal, Stan untied the rope Phil had used to support himself, coiled it and looped it over his shoulder. The movement and action helped to keep him warm. Soon the main rope came snaking down. He fastened it to himself, then undid Garasov’s rope, looped it and put that over his shoulder also. Then Stan
