136 The film features . . . performance: Jamaica Inn shooting script, Alfred Hitchcock Collection, BFI.
137 While still working . . . Strand: Taylor, Hitch, loc. 779 of 5468, Kindle.
137 “the kind of . . . to be”: Samuel Taylor, in “Reputations,” Hitch: Alfred the Great, BBC Two, May 30, 1999.
138 “the Hollywood people . . . combination”: Transcript of Hitchcock’s interview with Peter Bogdanovich, AHC MHL.
138 “a form of . . . months”: Oscar Wilde, “The Philosophy of Dress,” New York Tribune, April 19, 1885, 9.
139 One Hitchcock biographer . . . Sternberg: Taylor, Hitch, loc. 2683 of 5468, Kindle.
139 “The dandy does . . . living”: Philip Mann, The Dandy at Dusk: Taste and Melancholy in the Twentieth Century (London: Head of Zeus, 2017), 5.
139 “always wore them . . . Marrakesh”: Thomas Elsaesser, “The Dandy in Hitchcock,” in Richard Allen and S. Ishii Gonzales, eds., Alfred Hitchcock: Centenary Essays (London: British Film Institute, 1999), 4.
139 One friend, permitted . . . weight: Chandler, It’s Only a Movie, 2.
140 Hitchcock sometimes said . . . proportions: Ibid., 1.
140 “uniform in its . . . details”: Mann, The Dandy at Dusk, 33.
140 Appointment books kept . . . tailor: AH appointment books, AHC MHL.
140 “Whenever I need . . . “Make that!’ ”: Judy Klemsrud, “Men’s Clothes: Here Comes the Liberace Look,” New York Times, March 4, 1970, 50.
140 “dramatic and emotional . . . thought”: Thornton Delehanty, “A Liberated Hitchcock Dreams Gaudy Dreams in Technicolor,” New York Herald Tribune, April 22, 1945, AHC MHL.
141 “red drops of . . . strongly”: “Some Thoughts on Color by Alfred Hitchcock,” Adelaide Advertiser, September 4, 1937, 13.
141 “smears her lips . . . on it”: Delehanty, “A Liberated Hitchcock Dreams Gaudy Dreams in Technicolor.”
141 “Hitchcock thinks in . . . color”: Edith Head and Jane Kesner Ardmore, The Dress Doctor (Kingswood, Surrey: World’s Work, 1960), 159.
141 “an education in restraint”: Edith Head and Paddy Calistro, Edith Head’s Hollywood (New York: Dutton, 1983), 58.
141 “She’s an extraordinarily . . . colour”: Head and Kesner Ardmore, Dress Doctor, 160.
142 “Hitch paints a . . . suit”: Ibid., 21.
142 “helped me stand . . . Madeleine”: Auiler, Vertigo, 68.
142 “I think Hitchcock . . . camera”: Eva Marie Saint, OHP.
142 “He had such . . . Kendall”: Ibid.
143 “Martin, put on . . . surroundings”: Tim Burrows, “Martin Landau: ‘I chose to play Leonard as gay,’ ” Daily Telegraph, October 12, 2012, https://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/film/starsandstories/9601547/Martin-Landau-I-chose-to-play-Leonard-as-gay.html.
143 “Excuse me, Mr.Landau . . . impossible”: Tom Mankiewicz and Robert Crane, My Life as a Mankiewicz: An Insider’s Journey through Hollywood (Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 2012), 109.
143 “North by Northwest . . . suit”: Todd McEwen, “Cary Grant’s Suit,” in How Not to Be American: Misadventures in the Land of the Free (London: Aurum, 2013), 147.
145 “it would be . . . sadism”: Ibid., 151.
145 “gone to any . . . taste”: Cary Grant, “Cary Grant on Style,” GQ, April 15, 2013, https://www.gq.com/story/cary-grant-on-style. Originally published in GQ, Winter 1967–68.
145 “She’s wearing a . . . slacks?”: Head and Kesner Ardmore, Dress Doctor, 156.
145 “the only actor I ever loved”: Nancy Nelson, Evenings with Cary Grant (New York: Warner, 1993), 211.
145 “a rapport and . . . words”: Grant McCann, Cary Grant: A Class Apart (New York: Columbia University Press, 1996), 180.
146 “have the privilege . . . know”: AH to Cary Grant, March 13, 1979, Cary Grant Papers, MHL.
146 “Hitch thinks it . . . casually”: Hunter, Me and Hitch, 15.
146 “Real directors wear ties”: Hitchcock O’Connell and Bouzereau, Alma Hitchcock, 83.
147 “I was so thrilled . . . tell”: Peggy Robertson, OHP.
147 A look in . . . homes: Appraisal of property at 10957 Bellagio Road, Bel Air, by John J. Donahue and Associates, 1962, AHC MHL.
148 “Someone should bring . . . saucer”: Walter Raubicheck, “Working with Hitchcock: A Collaborators’ Forum with Patricia Hitchcock, Janet Leigh, Teresa Wright, and Eva Marie Saint,” in Hitchcock Annual, 2002–03, 33.
148 More indecorous behavior . . . can: Taylor, Hitch, loc. 4777 of 5468, Kindle.
148 “I’ve come to . . . us”: Alfred Hitchcock, “Would You Like to Know Your Future?” in Gottlieb, ed., Hitchcock on Hitchcock, Volume 1, 140–41. Originally published in Guideposts Magazine 14, no. 8 (October 1959): 1–4.
149 “Let’s play”: Bogdanovich, Who the Devil Made It, loc. 9300 of 15740, Kindle.
149 “knows more about . . . job”: Coleman, The Man Who Knew Hitchcock, 236.
149 “to keep the . . . in him”: Spoto, Dark Side of Genius, 406–7.
150 “protest, the triumph . . . art”: Elsaesser, “The Dandy in Hitchcock,” 5.
150 “unshakable resolve not . . . moved”: Mann, Dandy at Dusk, 30.
151 “negative acting, the . . . nothing”: “Film Crasher Hitchcock,” Cue, May 19, 1951, DSP UCLA.
151 “The screen actor . . . well”: Alfred Hitchcock, “Direction,” in Charles Davy, ed., Footnotes to the Film (London: Lovat Dickson, 1937), 9.
151 “You have got . . . over it”: Bogdanovich, Who the Devil Made It, loc. 10166 of 15740, Kindle.
152 “One cannot become . . . man”: Chandler, It’s Only a Movie, 309.
152 John Landis was . . . bearing: Ibid.
152 “You hear about . . . afresh”: Freeman, The Last Days of Alfred Hitchcock, 5.
152 “I don’t give . . . weeks”: Bruce Dern with Christopher Fryer and Robert Crane, Things I’ve Said, But Probably Shouldn’t Have: An Unrepentant Memoir (Hoboken, NJ: Wiley, 2007), 143.
152 Apparently, the brazenness . . . unapproachability: Bruce Dern, Kirby.
153 “A lot of . . . they are”: AH, interview by Richard Schickel, The Men Who Made the Movies: Alfred Hitchcock, PBS, November 4, 1973.
153 Laurents was as . . . 1940s: See Arthur Laurents, Original Story By: A Memoir of Broadway and Hollywood (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2000).
153 harassment and criminalization . . . wars: see George Chauncey, Gay New York: The Making of the Gay Male World, 1890–1940 (London: Flamingo, 1995).
153 “built sexual ambiguity .
