is splendid," I quietly said and added sour grapes, "If a large type like this is printed on this sort of high-grade paper, the text will look magnificent."

M ignored me and did not say a word but smiled the smile of a winner. The truth is I did not feel humiliated. I was relieved the text I read was good. More than finding errors and singing a song of triumph, I didn't understand how good that feeling is. I'm not lying. I long to read fine compositions.

Hongaku-ji is a famous temple in Imabetsu. It is known that the head priest was the great priest Teiden. He was written about in Aomori-ken Tsuushi (A Brief History of Aomori Prefecture) by Takeuchi Umpei.

It states:

Priest Teiden was the child of Niiyama Jinzaemon of Imabetsu and soon became a disciple in the Hirosaki Seigan-ji Temple and trained at Senshou-ji Temple in Iwakidaira for fifteen years. From the age of twenty-nine, he served as the chief priest at Hongaku-ji Temple in Imabetsu, Tsugaru. For his education until Koho year 16 (1731) when he reached forty-two years of age, he traveled to neighboring provinces in addition to traveling throughout the Tsugaru region. As during a memorial service for the erection of the gilt bronze pagoda in Koho year 12, throngs of pious men and women from the territory, such as the southern region, Akita, and Matsumae, were seen on pilgrimage to the temple.

N, the Sotogahama guide and town councilor, suggested we visit that temple.

"Talking about literature is fine, but your talk is not general. Some of it is curious. So no matter how much time passes, you will never become famous. Now, Priest Teiden," said N, who was fairly drunk, "Priest Teiden delayed explaining Buddha's teachings and first planned to advance the welfare of the people. If he hadn't, the people wouldn't have listened to anything about Buddha's teachings, you see. Priest Teiden revived industry and…" he interrupted himself with a burst of laughter.

"Well, let's go. It would be a shame to come to Imabetsu and not see Hongaku-ji. Priest Teiden is the pride of Sotogahama. I say that but the truth is I still haven't seen it. This is a good opportunity. I want to see it today. Why don't we all go?"

As we drank, I talked about literature with so-called weird spots with M. He seemed to agree. But N's passion for Priest Teiden was intense, and he finally got our lazy butts up.

"Let's drop by this Hongaku-ji Temple then walk straight to Minmaya," I said as I sat on the step an the entryway and fastened my gaiters.

"Well, are you coming?" I invited M.

"Yes, I should go with you to Minmaya."

"I'd be grateful if you did. With this energy, I think we can have a long discussion about the town administration of Kanita at an inn in Minmaya. The truth is I've become melancholy. When I see you, I'm reassured. Mrs. M, tonight I'm borrowing your husband."

"All right," she said with a smile. She seemed more relaxed. No, she was probably resigned.

We filled water bottles with sake and set out in good cheer. Along the way, N shouted, "Priest Teiden! Priest Teiden!" The roof of the temple was in our sights when we came across an old woman selling fish. The cart she pulled was stacked with an assortment of fish. I found a sea bream about two feet long.

"How much for this sea bream?" I asked without guessing the price.

"One yen, seventy sen."

Cheap, I thought.

I bought it. However, after buying it, I was poor. And I was going to a temple. Carrying a two-feet-long fish to a temple was a strange plan. I became glum along the way.

"That purchase made no sense," said N twisting his mouth in scorn, "Why did you buy that?"

"You're wrong, we're going to an inn in Minmaya. I'll have them salt and grill it and serve it on a large plate for three people."

"Well, you're thinking is peculiar. I'd like to see what kind of marriage ceremony you had."

"Anyway, aren't you grateful I was able to soak up a bit of luxury for one yen seventy sen?"

"I'm not thankful. Around here one yen seventy sen is a lot. In fact, you aren't a skilled shopper."

"Really?" I said, disappointed.

I finally entered the temple grounds with the two-feet-long fish dangling down.

"What should I do?" I quietly conferred with M, "I'm at a loss."

"So that's it," said M looking pensive, "I'll go to the temple and get a newspaper or something. Wait here. I'll be right back."

M went to the back of the temple kitchen and returned with newspapers and string. He wrapped up the problem fish and put it in my backpack. I was relieved and looked up at the temple gate and did not see a particularly splendid building.

"It's not much of a temple, is it?" I whispered to N.

"No, no, no. Inside is much better. Let's go in and listen to the priest's explanation."

I felt depressed and plodded behind N. From then on, our experience would be bitter. The priest was out, but his fifty-year-old wife came out and gave us a tour of the main temple. A prolonged explanation followed. The whole time we sat in the proper kneeling position and listened. When she paused and happily stood, N drew closer and said, "If I may, I'd like to ask one more question. Around when did Priest Teiden build this temple?"

"What do you mean? Saint Teiden did not found this temple. Teiden was the fifth generation priest of this temple's founder and revived the sect," she said and continued her drawn-out explanation.

"So that's what happened," said N and blankly stared, "If I may, I have another question. This Priest Teizan…" He said Priest Teizan and was in a muddle.

An enthusiastic N kept inching closer, asking questions and getting answers, until he was separated by a gap the width of a sheet of paper from the knees of the old woman. It would be dark soon. My

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