morada in a procession, whipping themselves. They go back to the morada for nursing and cleansing with rosemary water. Again, they march and whip themselves. Over and over and over. A Penitente will sometimes walk on his bare knees for hundreds of yards in beds of razor-sharp cacti. Others half carry, half drag huge crosses that are half again their weight and height up the side of the mountain to the Calvario-the place where they reenact the crucifixion. In the old days, if one of them died in these rituals, his death was like a sacred event,” she said, raising both palms toward the heavens in a pantomime of praise. “If he survived, his sins were forgiven, and he was absolved from worldly sin, at least until the next season of Lent. They are still extremely superstitious about all this. One day of suffering is supposed to pay for a year of sin.
“Oh, my, I can still remember it,” she said, her deep voice cracking with an occasional low-pitched squeak. “On Good Friday, when they would make procession from the morada to the church, we would get blood spattered all over us as they passed by whipping themselves! You see, this was supposed to make them pure, even purify the community, or bargain souls out of purgatory-making these brutal penances.”
I called on Regan many times after that. Each time, I brought her a little gift-tamales, fresh bread from the pueblo, candles. It was clear that she looked forward to our visits as much as I did, and we developed a kind of routine. She would always brew the poleo while we made small talk. Then I would take out my book and a pen, and she would have a story ready. Over time, she relaxed more and more in my presence, if one could ever call Regan relaxed. And her fondness for our time together was made evident as she began to prepare for my visits by making notes of her own, so she would not forget to tell me something she felt was important-either some of the local history or more of her own personal experiences.
Once she told about a time when she was a child, and she and a friend had gone up into the mountains to an old morada. “We couldn’t have been any more than eight or nine years old. We hid behind large boulders, watching as the Penitentes prepared for a crucifixion. This man had a black bag tied over his head with a rope, and he was made to drag this enormous cross up the hillside. And then they tied his arms and chest and feet to it and raised him up! If they had found us watching,” she said, her big dark eyes almost popping out above her high, pronounced cheekbones, “they would have stoned us to death!”
She paused for a moment, then went on: “They left him there-they would leave them there sometimes for the whole day, even overnight, you see-exposed to the weather, almost naked. It’s very often freezing that time of the year! And they bind their limbs tight, to cut off the circulation, as part of the emulation of Christ’s suffering. They bind their chests tight.”
I was taking notes as fast as I could write, trying to capture every word Regan said. When she hadn’t spoken for a minute or so, I stopped writing and looked up.
“You know,” she said softly, “if a wife found her husband’s shoes on the doorstep after a night of ceremony, she would simply know that he had been chosen, and he had not survived the ritual. No one was permitted to speak of this, and no one did. Whoever was selected to endure the trial of crucifixion was supposedly blessed”-Regan raised her eyebrows-“whether he lived through it or not.”
Regan seemed lost in her thoughts for a moment as she shook her head repeatedly in disbelief. “It was barbaric, like they were trapped in the dark ages. Some fool started this ridiculous behavior-what was it? Five hundred years ago? And they were still doing it, without question, even thirty years ago. But at least not too many do these things anymore,” she insisted, still shaking her head. “It was the old ones-they believed in this terrible penitence. They thought the way to salvation was to experience Christ’s agony, his pain. As if they could. They believed that nonsense about paying for their own sins and those of others with their anguish.” Her voice got louder as she went on, “You know, the Church forbade this, even the law forbade this. But they didn’t listen. Instead, they moved their rituals to secret places and held them after dark. They even had the sympathy of some of the local priests.”
“But if someone died,” I asked, “how could they cover that up?”
“What little government there was here turned heads and allowed all this. Deaths were not investigated, some not even reported!” She set her tea mug down hard onto the cedar table, and the poleo sloshed out of the cup and onto the beautiful pink and white, making a pale green pool. She didn’t seem to notice the spill. “You see, many times, the authorities were Penitentes themselves.” She paused. “But that was in the old days. Now, thank God, we have returned to the Catholic Church, and almost nobody does those things anymore. New Mexico needs to move out of the dark ages.”
She stopped talking and was quiet for a few moments. Then she began the conversation at a new place. “You know, Jamaica, you must come to mass here in Agua Azuela sometime. I think you would surely enjoy it. We have one monthly mass, usually on the second Sunday of the month. We have to share Father Ximon with Embudo, Dixon, and Pilar, but he does still make it here once a month.”
She had repeated the same invitation every month, and I always answered that I would try to come to a mass sometime. But for months, I had never gotten around to it.
Now, I had come to tell Regan about the theft of my book, to enlist her help in starting again, but there was no sign of her. And I felt the least I could do was to try to make it to mass, as she had so often requested. I owed her that much for all the help she had given me.
As I was walking back to my Jeep, I saw something on the ground beside the path near the corral. I went toward it and found a rosary that looked to be quite old. It was made of intricately carved wooden beads with a large, ornate, carved wooden crucifix. The drops of blood on Christ’s hands and feet and where the crown of thorns touched his brow were the only places where color had been applied-a red stain of some kind. A larger patch of the same color symbolized where his side had been pierced. I turned the cross over and saw the name
As I examined this find, I heard footsteps coming down the path from the direction of the barn and casita uphill from where I stood. An attractive man came toward me. He was tall and dark haired, wearing a black sweater and jeans. “Hello, there,” he called in a deep, pleasant voice. He smiled as he approached, his white teeth gleaming.
I smiled back.
“Are you here to see Ms. Daniels?”
“Yes. I’m a friend of Regan’s; I hoped I would find her home, but I guess I missed her.”
“She went into town on some errands. I’m a temporary resident-I’m renting her casita for the month.”
“But I saw her car-”
“One of her neighbors drove. I guess they take turns driving when they go for groceries together. What’s that you have there?”
I held up the rosary. “I just found this on the path, right here next to the corral.”
The man smiled at me again and held out a hand. “Mind if I take a look?”
“No, not at all. It’s quite old, I think.” I handed it to him.
“Oh, I recognize this,” he said. “Regan takes it to church with her every time she goes. They only have mass here…”
“I know, once a month. She’s told me.”
“That’s right. But a few villagers gather at the church every morning and a lay member leads a worship service. Regan goes to that most days. I would be happy to give this back to her when she gets back from town. That is, if that would be all right with you.” He smiled and looked at me with handsome dark eyes.
“Sure. That works for me. I’ll just be going now. I’m headed into Santa Fe.”
“It was nice talking to you,” he said, his eyes still holding mine, his lips still forming a pleasant smile.
“Nice talking to you, too,” I said. “Have a nice day.” I turned and started down the drive toward my Jeep. As I came back past the corral, the old mare flinched suddenly as if I’d startled her out of her catatonic state. She shook her head in a slow pendulum motion, from side to side, tossing her strawlike, scruffy mane. I think that was the first time I ever saw the horse move at all. I remembered Regan telling me that twice she had paid a neighbor to dig a grave for that horse in the fall before the ground froze, thinking the nag would not make it through the winter, and twice she had paid the same neighbor to fill the hole again in the spring.
