that they can snap. And one leaves one’s home country on a whim, feeling no more than a sleeve tugged urgently by an eager and fresh-faced friend. Thus, at the age of twenty, I found myself abandoning my studies in chemistry, zoology and botany at Sydney Sussex, Cambridge, to accompany the Scales brothers to Paris.
A fellow science student with whom I shared digs, Peter Scales, had coerced me to tag along with him and his sibling, Olaf, a young painter. They were twins, but beyond the superficial similarities —
Our journey had been prompted when Olaf heard that Renoir, Monet and Degas were exhibiting in the studio of the photographer Nadar. This was the very birth of the era of “Impressionism”, you understand — when the word was first used by the critic Louis Leroy to ridicule Monet’s
The other ulterior motive was, frankly: I spoke French. Not well, but enough. I’d learned it at my great- uncle’s knee, and though I had hardly any memory of him, the old
So, whilst the brothers sought out paintings that captured the fall of light, I was content to observe the fall of light itself on the architecture of the great city around me, and the atmosphere of
Having explored the Conciergerie, the grisly staging-post before the guillotine, I found myself walking along the Quai de la Corse with the intention of crossing the Pont Notre Dame to delve into Les Halles, the so-called “belly of Paris”, when I heard a female voice behind me:
Instinctively I turned, and to my surprise the unmistakable scent of lilies hit my nostrils. Indeed, a lily itself was being thrust towards me. Equally instinctively, I pushed it aside, glimpsing the vagabond creature in rags and bonnet trying to force it upon me.
“
I was taken aback. A strange phrase which I instantly translated:
For some reason this gave me pause.
The beggar girl thrust the flower at me again, her arm outstretched. “
What a fool! She meant that if she did not sell the flowers in her basket by the end of the day they would have to be thrown away and wasted. Laughing at my own stupidity, I took the lily and urgently dug into my pocket for change, but by the time I looked up from my palm she was disappearing into the Place Louis-Lepine. She glanced back from under the trees, the sunlight catching the corners of her eyes like the dabs of a paint brush. Then she was gone. Her act — the simple gift of a flower to a complete stranger — done.
That night the boys and I went to the Cafe Dauphine, not far from our lodgings in the Rue Quincampoix, and sank several “nightcaps”. They lost themselves happily in their cups, but, intoxicated in quite another way, I could not concentrate on a word they said.
The next morning, after dressing, I suggested we walk through the Marche aux Fleurs, the flower market on the Place Louis-Lepine. The twins humoured me, with no idea my stomach was churning at the prospect that I might not see the girl again. But there she was, standing at her stall, in sturdy workman’s boots, cardigan tied sloppily round her waist, woollen balaclava under her second-hand bonnet, ruddy cheeks and pink knuckles, full lips spare of the gaud of make-up, nattering in a Parisian dialect incomprehensible even to my ear, giving the uncouth males around her a run for their money.
“All right,” said Olaf. “Hi-ho. Go and speak to her, then.”
“I have no idea what the deuce you mean.”
“Do you not?” He laughed, sticking his hand in his waistcoat and making a mime of a beating heart. “I thought he was interested in the botany here,” he said, nudging his brother. “But obviously it’s the biology he’s got his eyes on.”
“Rot.”
“Own up, Yorkie, old boy. It’s not a crime, for Heaven’s sake…”
I turned on my heel, not wanting to show them my cheeks were flushed.
We spent the rest of the day touring the Louvre, but I was beginning to grow sick of their company. Nothing to account for this, other than the fact that their jocular presence prevented me openly seeking the flower seller for fear of incurring their puerile taunts. Yet it was a preoccupation that refused to leave my mind. I was simply unable to banish it.
“My gosh. He really is sickening for something, this lad,” said Olaf later, sipping strong black coffee of the kind only palatable in France. “I think Cupid’s arrow has really struck its target this time…”
I was tempted to punch him on the chin. As it was, I grabbed my coat and returned to the Marche aux Fleurs, buying her a silly gift along the way in reciprocation for the flower she had given me.
It was late afternoon by now and the working day almost at an end. She did not see me at first. I loitered like a felon, content to observe the way she folded the brown paper to make bouquets and made gay little ribbons of rope or twine. Her grace was an attribute that captivated me. She captivated me. The hand upon her hip, the sway of her shoulders, the toss of her head. The ragged edges of her skirts skimming the cobbles. The wisps of reddish hair curling from the soft cleft at the back of her neck. In the end I could not disguise that I was staring at her — and finally our eyes met. I thought suddenly she might find me foolish, but as soon as she laughed and made a little curtsey I felt at ease. I handed her my gift. She looked at it with astonishment bordering on awe, the expression on her face utterly delightful.
Over breakfast Olaf said there was nothing like someone else’s tragedy to raise his spirits. Peter asked if love was a tragedy, then? His brother told him in a pitying tone that he’d led a sheltered life. Refusing to enter into their
Now, those who have followed my exploits later in life will know I have been confronted on occasion by scenes of unutterable horror — at the risk of disappointing you, this was not one of them. In fact the sight of her stall bolted up when all the others were open gave me at first only a mild sense of disappointment. She was not there — today — perhaps for good reason. I had no cause,