Crunch Time

Homemade Cream of Mushroom Soup

1 ounce dried wild mushrooms (porcini, cremini, or morels)

2-1/2 cups spring water

4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus an additional 2 tablespoons, if needed

1 shallot, finely diced

8 ounces fresh button mushrooms, gently rinsed, patted dry with paper towels, and finely diced

7 tablespoons all-purpose flour

4 cups (1 quart) homemade chicken stock

2 cups heavy whipping cream

1/4 cup dry sherry

sea salt or kosher salt, to taste

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Place the dried mushrooms in a large heatproof bowl. Bring the spring water to a boil and pour it over the dried mushrooms. Allow to sit for 30 minutes. Remove the reconstituted mushrooms with a slotted spoon, pat dry, and chop finely. Set aside. Strain the mushroom water through cheesecloth and set the water aside. You should have about 2 cups of mushroom water.

In a large stockpot, melt the butter over low heat. Place the diced shallot and diced fresh mushrooms in the pot and allow to cook over low heat, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes, or until soft. Raise the heat to medium, sprinkle in the flour, and stir constantly until the mixture bubbles and the flour is cooked, about 3 minutes. (If the mixture is completely dry, add up to 2 tablespoons of the extra butter. Stir the mixture until the butter is completely melted, then stir and cook until the flour is cooked.)

Using a 1/2-cup measuring cup, add the chicken stock and reserved mushroom water 1/2 cup at a time. Bring the heat up to medium-high, and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and bubbles. Lower the heat and add the chopped wild mushrooms, the cream, the sherry, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook, stirring frequently, for another 15 minutes. Remove from heat.

When the soup has cooled slightly, spoon it in batches into a blender, and puree. Place the pureed batches into a large heatproof bowl. When the soup is completely pureed, pour it back into the stockpot, taste, and correct the seasoning. Bring the soup back to a simmer and serve.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Breakfast Bread Pudding with Rum Sauce

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1-1/2 cups granulated sugar

1-1/2 pounds cinnamon raisin bread, torn up into bite-size pieces

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened

4 large eggs, at room temperature

4 cups half-and-half

2 tablespoons vanilla (preferably Mexican, or you can use 1 tablespoon vanilla extract and 1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste)

Mix the cinnamon into the sugar until well combined; set aside. Butter a 9-by-13-inch glass baking pan and place the torn-up bread into it.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the butter until it is creamy. Mix in the cinnamon sugar and beat until very creamy. Add the eggs, one at a time, and beat until well combined. Mix in the half-and-half and vanilla, and beat well. (The mixture will be thin and will not be completely combined; this is normal.) Stop the beater and use a spatula to mix as well as possible.

Pour the butter mixture over the torn-up bread. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator overnight.

In the morning, remove the pan from the refrigerator and discard the plastic wrap.

Preheat the oven to 350?F.

Bake the pudding for 30 minutes, then remove from the oven and stir with a wooden spoon. Place the pudding back in the oven and bake for an additional 30 minutes, until it is puffed and golden. While the pudding is baking, prepare the rum sauce (see below).

Place the pudding on a rack and carefully pour the rum sauce over it. Allow the rum sauce to soak into the pudding (2–3 minutes), and then serve. Pudding will be very hot.

Makes 8 servings

Rum Sauce

4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter

1 cup light brown sugar

1/3 cup best-quality rum

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 large egg

In a medium-size saute pan, melt the butter. Add the sugar, rum, and nutmeg, and stir with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is well blended. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly, still in the pan.

In a small bowl, beat the egg until it is very frothy. Beat the egg into the butter mixture until well combined. Place the saute pan back on the stove and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat, until the mixture thickens.

Remove from the heat and immediately pour over the pudding.

Puerco Cubano

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

1 pound ground pork

2 tablespoons freshly minced or crushed garlic

2 teaspoons demi-glace de poulet or demi-glace de veau (chicken or veal demi-glace)

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 cups fresh orange juice

1/4 cup fresh or organic, not-from-concentrate lime juice

2 teaspoons (or more) granulated sugar

1 cup chopped fresh cilantro

In a large (12-inch) nonstick saute pan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the pork and the garlic, and cook, stirring and breaking up the pork, until the meat is just cooked. Add the demi-glace and stir well.

Add the flour, oregano, salt, and pepper, and cook, stirring, until the flour is cooked and the mixture bubbles.

Stir in the juices and sugar and raise the heat to medium. Stir constantly until the mixture bubbles and is thickened. Taste and correct the seasoning.

Spoon the pork onto a large platter and sprinkle with the chopped cilantro. This dish goes well with hot cooked rice.

Serve immediately.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Ferdinanda’s Florentine Quiche

rice crust (see below)

1 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 large eggs

2 cups small-curd cottage cheese

2 tablespoons whipping cream