terfuges. — A Polish Fable.--Page 34

CHAPTER XXIX.

The Tartar Mosque. — The Descendants of the Mongols in Moscow. — Tower of SoukarefF. — Colossal Reservoir. — Byzantine Architecture. — Public Institutions. — The Emperor every where. — Dissimilarity in the Slavonian and German Characters.—The Noblemen's Club. — Polite Education of the Russians. — Habits of the Higher Classes. — A Russian Coffee-house. — Religious Belief of the old Serfs. — Society in Moscow. — A Country House in a City. — Real Politeness. — Review of Russian Character. — Their want of Generosity. — Contempt for the Law of Kindness. — Seductive Manners of the Russians.— Their Fickleness. — Resemblance of the Poles and Russians. — Libertinism in Moscow.

—Moral Consequences of Despotism. — Observations on

Modern Literature. — Drunkenness a Vice of the highest

Classes. — Russian Curiosity. — Portrait of Princeand

his Companions. — Murder in a Nunnery. — Conversation at a Table-d'hote. — The Lovelace of the Kremlin. — A Burlesque Petition. — Modern Prudery. — Parting Scene with

Prince. — An elegant Coachman. — Morals of the

Citizens'Wives. — Libertinism the Fruit of Despotism.— Moral Licence in lieu of Political Freedom. — Condition of the Serfs and other Classes.—Nature of Russian Ambition.

—Results of the System of Peter the Great. — The true

Power of Russia. — Danger of Truth. — Songs of the Russian

Gipsies. — Musical Revolution accomplished by Duprez.—

The Theatre in Russia.—French Language in Russia un

derstood superficially.—A Russian in his Library. — The

Tarandasse. — Russian Ideas of Distance. — A noble Trait in

Russian Character.------ oG

CONTENTS.

V

CHAPTER XXX.

Roads in the Interior.— Farms and Country Mansions.— Monotony the great Characteristic of the Land. — Pastoral Life of the Peasants. — Beauty of the Women and ol<l Men.

—Policy attributed to the Poles. — A Night at the Convent

of Troitza. — Pestalozzi on Personal Cleanliness. — Interior

of the Convent.—Pilgrims. — Saint Sergius.— History of

the Convent. — Its Tombs and Treasures. — Inconveniences

of a Journey in Russia. — Bad Quality of the Water. — Want

of Probity a National Characteristic. - - Page 104

CHAPTER XXXI.

Commercial Importance of Yaroslaf. — A Russian's Opinion of Russian Architecture. — Description of Yaroslaf. — Monotonous Aspect of the Country. — The Boatmen of the Volga.

Coup-d'?il on the Russian Character. — Primitive Drovskas. — Antique Costume. — Russian Baths. — Difference between Russian and German Children. — Visit to the Governor. — An agreeable Surprise. — Souvenirs of Versailles. — Influence of French Literature. — Visit to the Convent of the Transfiguration.—Russian Piety. — Byzantine Style in the Arts. — Great Points of Religious Discussion in Russia. — The Zacuska. — The Sterled. — Russian Dinners. Family Soiree. — Moral Superiority of the Female Sex in Russia.—Justification of Providence. —A Lottery. — French Ton changed by Politics.—Want of a beneficent Aristocracy.

The real Governors of Russia.—Bureaucracy. — Children of the Popes. — Propagandism of Napoleon still operates in Russia. — The Task of the Emperor.- - -124

CHAPTER XXXII.

The Banks of the Volga. — Russian Coachmen in Mountain Roads. — Kostroma. — Ferry on the Volga. — Accident in a Forest. — Beauty of the Women. — Civilisation injurious.

Rousseau justified.—Etymology of the Word Sarmatian.

Elegance, Industry, and Humility of the Peasants.— Their Music. — National Music dangerous to Despotism. — The Road to Siberia. — A Picture of Russia. — Exiles on the Road. - - - - - - - - -156

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Site of Xijni-Novgorod. — Predilection of the Emperor for that City. — The Kremlin of Nijni. — Concourse at the Fair. — The Governor. — Bridge of the Oka. — Difficulty in obtaining a Lodging. — The Plague of Persicas. — Pride of the Feldjager. — The Fair-Ground. — Subterranean City. — Singular Appearance of the River. — The City of Tea. — Of Rags. — Of Wheelwrights' Work. — Of Iron. — Origin of the Fair. — Persian Village. — Salt Fish from the Caspian. — Leather. — Furs. — Lazzaronis of the North. — Badly chosen Site. — Commercial Credit of the Serfs. — Their Mode of i·aleulating. — Bad Faith of the Xobles. — Prices of Merchandise. — Turquoises of the Buchanans. — Kirguis Horses.

—The Fair after Sunset. —The Effects of Music in Russia.

Page 174

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Financial Phenomenon. — Financial Reform of the Emperor's.

—Means taken by the Governor of Xijni to induce the Mer

chants to obey. — Their nominal Compliance. — Inquiry into

their Motives. — Improvements at Xijni. — The Serf and the

Lord.'— The Governor of Nijni's Explanations of despotic

Administration. — Forbearance of the Authorities. — A Ride

with the Governor. — Value of the Commodities at the Fair

of Xijni. — Portrait of Frenchmen of the Xew School. — An

agreeable Rencontre. — Dinner at the Governor's. — English

Oddities. —Anecdote told by a Polish Lady. — The Utility of

easy Manners. — Visits with the Governor. — The Bureau

cracy. — The Author's Feldjager. — Flag of Minine. — Bad

Faith of the Government. — Modern Vandalism. — Peter the

Great.—French Character. — The true Glory of Xations.—

The Kremlin of Xijni. — The Governor's Camp. — Song of

the Soldiers. — Church of the Strogonoiis.—Russian Vau

deville.203

CONTENTS.

VU

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