world. Such creations of the Russian sovereigns, as I have hitherto seen, have evinced, not the love of the arts, but the love only of self.
Among other boasts, I hear it said by many Russians, that their climate also is ameliorating! Will God, then, connive at the ambition of this grasping people? 'Will he give them up even the sky and the breeze of the south ? Shall we see Athens in Lapland, Rome at Moscow, the riches of the Thames in the Gulf of Finland, and the history of nations reduced to a question of latitude and longitude ?
While my carriage, after leaving the palace, was crossing rapidly the immense square I have been describing, a violent wind raised immense clouds of dust, and I could only see, as through a veil, the equipages that were passing in all directions. The dust of summer is one of the plagues of Petersburg; it is so troublesome that I even wish for the winter snow. I had scarcely reached my hotel when a tremendous storm burst forth. Darkness at mid- day, thunder without rain, a wind which blew down houses, and, at the same time, a suffocating tempera-ture, were the greeting which Heaven gave during the nuptial banquet. The superstitious viewed these signs as ominous, but soon became re-assured, by observing that the stoi·m did not last long, and that the air was purer after it than before. I recount what I see, without sympathising with it, for I have L 2
220 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE EMPEROR.
no interest here but that which actuates a curious and attentive stranger. There is between France and Russia a Chinese Avail — the Slavonic language and character. In spite of the notions with which Peter the Great has inspired the Russians, Siberia commences on the Vistula.
Yesterday at seven o'clock I returned to the palace with several other foreigners, in order to be presented to the emperor and empress.
It is easy to perceive that the former cannot for a single instant forget what he is, nor the constant attention which he excites; he studies attitude incessantly,— from whence it results that he is never natural, not even when he is sincere. He has three expressions, not one of which is that of simple benevolence. The most habitual appears to be that of severity. Another, though rarer expression, suits perhaps better his fine face — it is that of solemnity; a third is that of politeness, in which are mixed some shades of gentleness and grace, that serve to temper the chill produced by the two former. But notwithstanding this grace, there is still something which injures the moral influence of the man ; it is, that each expression is assumed or east off at will, without the least trace of one remaining to modify the one next adopted. For such change we are not prepared, and it therefore appears like a mask, that can be put on or off at pleasure. Let not my meaning of the word mask be misunderstood, — I employ it according to its strict etymology. In Greek,
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE EMPEROE. 221
Hypocrite or actor are ill-sounding words, especially in the mouth of one who professes to be impartial and respectful. But it appears to me that, to intelligent readers, and it is only such that I address, words are nothing in themselves; their importance depends upon the sense that is given to them. I do not say that the physiognomy of this prince lacks candour, but it lacks natural expression. Thus, the chief evil under which Russia suffers, the absence of liberty, is depicted even on the countenance of its sovereign : he has many masks, but no face. Seek for the man, and you still always find the emperor.
I believe this remark may be turned to his praise ; he acts his part conscientiously. He would accuse himself of weakness were he to be for a single moment plain and simple, or were he to allow it to be seen that he lived, thought, and felt as do common mortals. Without seeming to partake of any of our affections, he is always governor, judge, general, admiral, prince, — never anything more, — never anything less. He will surely grow weary of all this effort as he advances in life; yet it will place him high in the opinion of lns people, and perhaps of the world, for the multitude admire the efforts which astonish them, — they pride themselves in seeing the pains that are taken to dazzle them.
Those who knew the Emperor Alexander, eulogise that prince on entirely different grounds. The qualities and the faults of the two brothers were altogether opposite ; there was no resemblance, and likewise no sympathy between them. In this country, the memory of a defunct emperor is little honoured, and in the present instance inclination accords with the policy L 3
222 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE EMPEROR —
that -would always have the preceding reign forgotten. Peter the Great is more nearly resembled by Nicholas than by Alexander, and he is more the fashion at the present day. If the ancestors of the emperors are flattered, their immediate predecessors are invariably calumniated.
The present emperor never lays aside the air of supreme majesty except in his family intercourse. It is there only that he recollects that the natural man has pleasures independent of the duties of state; at least, I hope that it is this disinterested sentiment which attaches him to his domestic circle. His private virtues no doubt aid him in his public capacity, by securing for him the esteem of the world; but I believe he would practise them independently of this calculation.
Among the Russians, sovereign power is respected as is a religion the obligations and authority of which stand independently of the personal merit of its priests: the virtues of the prince being superfluous, are so much the more sincere.
If I lived at Petersburg I should become a courtier, not from any love of place or power, nor from any puerile vanity, but from the desire of discovering some road that might reach the heart of a man who differs from all others. Insensibility is not in him a natural vice, it is the inevitable result of a position which he has not chosen, and which he cannot quit.
To abdicate a disputed power would be sometimes a revenge, to abdicate an absolute power would be an act of cowardice.
The singular destiny of an Emperor of Russia inspires me, first, with a lively emotion of curiosity,
HIS UNENVIABLE STATE.223
and afterwards with a feeling of pity. Who would not commiserate the state of this glorious exile ? I cannot tell whether the Emperor Nicholas has re-ceiyed from God a heart susceptible of friendship, but I feel as though the desire of testifying a disinterested attachment to a man to whom society refuses equals, might take the place of ambition. The danger even, would give to such zeal the charm of enthusiasm. What! it will be said, attachment for a man who has nothing of humanity about him ; whose severe physiognomy inspires a respect always mingled with fear, whose firm and fixed looks, in excluding familiarity, command obedience, and whose mouth, when it smiles, does not harmonise with the expression of the eyes; attachment for a man, in short, who never for a moment forgets to play his part as an absolute monarch !
And wherefore not ? This want of harmony, this apparent harshness, is not a crime but a misfortune. I view in it a forced habit, not a natural character; and believing that, I can see into this man whom you calumniate as much by your fears and your precautions as your flatteries, I can feel all that it must cost him to perform his duty as a sovereign, and I woiud not abandon so pitiable a deity of earth to the implacable envy and the hypocritical submission of his slaves. To find again the neighbour in the prince, to love him as a brother, would be a religious vocation, and a work of charity that would gain the blessing of heaven.
The more we see of the court, more especially of
the court of Russia, the greater compassion must we
feel for him who has to preside over it. It is a
