my new apartments ; they have been remodelled according to a plan of the emperor's. I will give orders for you to be shown every thing.' On withdrawing, she left me the object of general curiosity, and of the apparent good-will of the courtiers.
This court life is so new that it amuses me. It is like a journey in the olden times : I could imagine myself at Versailles a century ago. Politeness and magnificence are here natural. It will be seen by this how different Petersburg is from our Paris of the present day. At Paris there is luxury, riches and even elegance; but there is neither grandeur nor courtesy. Ever since the first revolution, we have dwelt in a conquered country, where the spoilers and the spoiled consort together as well as they art-able. In order to be polite, it is necessary to have something to «;ive. Politeness is the art of doina` to others the honours of the advantages we possess, whether of our minds, our riches, our rank, our standing, or any other source of enjoyment. To be polite, is to know how to offer and to accept with grace; but when a person has nothing certain of his own, he cannot give any thing. In France at the present time nothing is exchanged through mutual 3i 4
248CONVERSATION WITH THE
good will ; every thing is snatched by means of interest, ambition, or fear. Conversation, even, becomes insipid, when the secret calculations of interest cease to animate it. Mind itself is only valued, when it can be turned to personal account.
A fixed security of position in society is the basis of courtesy in all its relations, and the source also of those sallies of wit that enliven conversation.
Scarcely had we rested from the fatigues of the court ball, when we had to attend, in the Michael Palace, another fete, given yesterday by the Grand Duchess Helena, sister-in-law of the emperor, wife of the Grand Duke Michael, and daughter of Prince Paul of Wirtemberg, who lives at Paris. She is spoken of as one of the most distinguished personages in Europe, and her conversation is extremely interesting. I had the honour of being presented to her before the ball commenced, when she only addressed a word to me, but during the evening she gave me several opportunities of conversing with her.
The following is, as far as I recollect, the summary of what was said : —
' I hear that, in Paris and its neighbourhood, you move in a very agreeable circle of society.'
' It is true, madame, the conversation of persons of mind is my greatest pleasure, but I was far from venturing to suppose that your Imperial Highness would have been acquainted with this circumstance.'
' We know Paris, and we arc aware that there are there some few who are conversant with things as they полу arc, and who at the same time do not forget the pn«t. These are, I doubt not, your friends.
GRAND DUCHESS HELENA. 249
'We admire, through their writings, several of the persons whom you see habitually, especially Madame Gay, and her daughter, Madame de Girardin.'
Nothing is so rare as to think ourselves obliged to feel modesty for others; it was however a sentiment which I, in a slight degree, experienced at this moment. It will be said, that of all modesty this costs the least in its manifestation. However much it may be ridiculed, it is not the less true, that I felt I should have wanted delicacy, had I endeavoured to excite for my friends an admiration, by which my own vanity might have profited. At Paris I should have said all that I thought; at Petersburg I was afraid of seeming to magnify myself, under the pretence of doing justice to others. The Grand Duchess persisted, saying, ' We take great pleasure in reading the works of Madame Gay. What do you think of thorn ? '
' My opinion is, madame, that we may find in them a description of the society of former days written by one who understands it.'
' Why does not Madame de Girardin continue to write ? '
' Madame de Girardin is a poetess, madame, and in a writer of poetry silence is the indication of labour.'
250MAGIC FETES.
be a pity that she should confine herself to the production of mere ephemeral works.' *
During this conversation, I made it a rule merely to listen and to reply ; but I expected to hear the Grand Duchess pronounce other names which might flatter my patriotic pride, and put my friendly reserve to new trials.
These expectations were deceived. The Grand Duchess, who passes her life in a country where society is remarkable for its tact, undoubtedly knew better than myself what to speak of, and Avhat to omit. Efjually fearing the significance of my Avords, and of my silence, she did not utter another syllable on the subject of our cotemporary literauire.
There are certain names, whose sound alone would disturb the tranquillity of mind and the uniformity of thought, despotically imposed upon all who will live at the Russian court.
I must now describe some of the magic fetes at which I am present every evening. AVith us the balls are disfigured by the sombre attire of the men, whereas the varied and brilliant uniforms of the Russian officers give an extreme brilliancy to the saloons of Petersburg.
In Russia the magnificence of the women's apparel is found to accord with the gold of the military dress ; and the male dancers have not the appearance of being the clerks of attorneys, or the shopmen of their partners' apothecaries.
The whole length of the garden front of the Michael Palace is ornamented by an Italian colon-
* The conversation is repeated word for word as it occurred.
BEAUTIFUL ILLUMINATION.251
nade. Yesterday they availed themselves of a temperature of twenty-six degrees to illuminate the spaces betwixt each pillar of this exterior gallery with clusters of small lamps, arranged in a manner that had a very original effect. The lamps were formed of paper in the shape of tulips, lyres, vases, <&c. Their appearance was both tasteful and novel.
At each fete given by the Grand Duchess Helena. it is said that she invents something altogether new. Such a reputation must be troublesome, for it is difficult to maintain. This princess, so beautiful and intellectual, and so celebrated throughout Europe for the grace of her manners, and the charms of her conversation, struck me as being less natural and easy than the other females of the imperial family. Celebrity as a woman of wit, and high intellectual attainment, must be a heavy burden in a royal court. She is an elegant and distinguished-looking person, but has the air of suffering from weariness and lassitude. Perhaps she would have been happier had she possessed good sense, with less wit and mental acquirements, and had continued a German princess confined to the monotonous life of a petty sovereignty.
Her obligation of doing the honours of French literature at the court of the Emperor Nicholas, makes me afraid of the Grand Duchess Helena.
The light that proceeded from the groups of lamps was reflected in a picturesque manner upon the pillars of the palace, and among the trees of the garden. The latter was full of people. In the fetes at Petersburg the people serve as an ornament, just as a collection of rare plants adorns a hot-house. Delightful sounds were heard in the distance, where л 6
