Empress. — Philosophy of Despotism....... Page 190
Note. — Exeitement of a Petersburg Life. — The Emperor truly a Russian. — Affability of the Empress. — Comparison between Paris and Petersburg. — Definition of Politeness. — Fete at the Michael Palace.—Conversation with the Grand Duchess Helena. — Beautiful Blummation.— A Grove in a Bali-Room. — Jet d'Eau. — Future Prospects of Democracy.
—Interesting Conversation with the Emperor. — Russia
explained. — Improvements in the Kremlin.—An English
Nobleman and his Family. —English Politeness.—Anecdote
in Note. — The French Ambassador. — The Grand Cham
berlain. — Severe Reprimand of the Emperor's. - 244
The Ladies of the Court. —The Finns. — The Opera. — The Emperor there. — Imposing Person of this Prince. — His Accession to the Throne. — Courage of the Empress. — The Emperor's Recital of this Scene to the Author. —Another
XXV111
CONTENTS.
Description of the Emperor. — Continuation of his Conversation.—His Political Opinions. —Sincerity of his Language.
Fete at the Duchess of Oldenburg's. — Bal Champetre.— Flowers in Russia. — The Friend of the Empress. — Several Conversations with the Emperor. — His noble Sentiments.— Confidence with which he inspires those who approach him.
Aristocracy the only Bulwark of Liberty. — Parallel between Autocracies and Democracies. — The Arts in Petersburg. — All true Talent is national. - - Page 262
The Population of Petersburg.—Solitude of the Streets.— The Architecture. — Place du Carrousel in Paris. — Square of the Grand Duke at Florence. — The Perspective Newski.
—Pavements. — Effects of the Thaw. — Interior of the
Houses. — The Beds. — Visit to Prince. — Bowers in
the Drawing-Rooms. — Beauty of the Slavonian Men. — Russian Coachmen and Postilions. — The Feldjager.—
The Poetical Aspect of the Land. — Contrast between Men and Things. — Architecture of the Churches. — A General View of Petersburg. — Picturesque and beautiful notwithstanding its Architecture. — Nature beautiful even near the Pole. — Antipathy between the Teutonic and Russian Races. — Its Effects in Poland. — Resemblance between the Russians and Spaniards.—Heat of the Summer.—Fuel in Petersburg. — Address of the Russian People. — The Designs of Providence. — Future Scarcity of Fuel in Russia.
Want of Inventive Mechanical Genius among the People.
The Romans of the North. — Relation between People and their Governments.—The Plasterers.—Ugliness and Dirtiness of the Women of the Lower Classes.—Their Disproportion in point of Number, and its Result.—Asiatic Manners. — Russian Politeness. -288
THE
EMPIRE 0E THE CZAR.
ARRIVAL OF THE HEREDITARY GRAND DUKE OF RUSSIA AT EMS.
CHARACTER OF RUSSIAN COURTIERS.THE PERSON OF THE
GRAND DUKE. HIS FATHER AND UNCLE AT THE SAME AGE.
HIS EQUIPAGES AND SUITE.SUPERIORITY OF THE ENGLISH IN
ALL EXTERNAL APPURTENANCES. THE RHINE. THE RIVER
MORE BEAUTIFUL THAN ITS BANKS. — FIRE-FLIES ON THE RHINE.
I date from yesterday the commencement of my Russian Travels.* The Hereditary Grand Duke has arrived at Ems, preceded by ten or twelve carriages, and attended by a numerous court.
What has chiefly struck me in my first view of Russian courtiers is the extraordinary submissivcness with which, as grandees, they perform their
* 5th June, 1839.
VOL. I.B
9
CHARACTER OF RUSSIAN COURTIERS.
of the heir of the imperial throne, a habit of servile docility from which the nobles are not more exempt than the valets. It is not merely the etiquette that regulates other courts, where official respect, the importance of the office rather than that of the person, the compulsory part, in short, that has to be played, pi'oduces ennui, and sometimes ridicule : it is something more; it is a spontaneous and involuntary humility, which yet does not altogether exclude arrogance : it seems to me as though I eoiud hear them say, ' since it cannot be otherwise, we are glad to have it so.' This mixture of pride and humiliation displeases mc, and by no means prepossesses me in favour of the country I am about to survey.
I found myself amid the crowd of curious spectators close to the Grand Duke, just as he descended from his carriage ; and as he stood for some time before entering the gate of the
with a Russian lady, the Countess, I was able
to observe him at my leisure. His age, as his appearance indicates, is twenty: his height is commanding, but he appears to me, for so young a man, rather fat. His features would be handsome were it not that their fulness destroys, their expression. His round face rather resembles that of a German than a Russ ; it suggests an idea of what the Emperor Alexander's must have been at the same age, without however recalling, in any degree, the physiognomy of the Calmuc. A face of this cast will pass through many changes before assuming its definitive character. The habitual humour which it, at present, denotes, is gentleness and benevolence; but between the youthful smile of the eyes, and the constant contraction of the
