Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

which strengthens my former observation, that the Russian capital is a camp, somewhat more stable and pacific than a mere bivouac.

RUSSIAN POLITENESS.311

There are few cafes in Petersburg, and no authorised public balls in the interior of the city. The promenades are little frequented, and those who are met there exhibit a gravity that conveys but little idea of enjoyment.

But if fear renders the men serious, it also renders them extremely polite. I have never elsewhere seen so many men of all classes treating each other with respect. The driver of the drowska formally salutes his comrade, who never passes him without rendering reverence for reverence; the porters salute the plasterers, and so with all the others. This urbanity is3 perhaps, affected; at least, I believe it overstrained : nevertheless, the mere appearance of amenity contributes to the pleasure of life. If a pretended politeness has so much about it that is valuable, what a charm must real politeness possess, the politeness, that is to say, of the heart!

A stay in Petersburg would be agreeable to any traveller who possessed character, and who could believe all that he heard. The greatest difficulty would be the escaping of dinners and soirees, those real plagues of 1tussia, and it may be added of all societies where strangers are admitted, and consequently where intimacy is excluded.

I have accepted here but few private invitations. I was chiefly curious to view the solemnities of the court, but I have seen enough; one soon wearies of wonders in the contemplation of which the heart has no share.

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER XV.

Fete of Peterhoff. —The People in the Palace of their Master.

—Immense Power of the Emperor. — The Empress Cathe

rine's Motives for instituting Schools.—Views of the present

Emperor.—Russian Hospitality. — Foreigners' Descriptions

of Russia. — The Author's Motives in writing his Travels.—

No Middle Class in Russia. — The Children of the Priests.—

Capital Punishments. — Abject Misery of the People.—Rules

for Foreigners who would seek Popularity in Russia. — Pro

bity of the Peasants. — Pickpockets in the Palace. — The

Journal des Debats.—The Site of Peterhoff.—The Park

Illuminations.—A Citizen Bivouac. — The English Palace.—

Silence of the Crowd. —The Ball. —Good Order of the Pea

sants.—Accident in theGulf.—Evil Omens. — The Empress's

Mode of Life.—Description of the Illuminations. — Review

of the Corps of Cadets. — A Cadet in favour. — The Circas

sian Guard.Page 1

CHAPTER XVI.

Cottage of Peterhoff.— A Surprise. — The Empress.— Her Dress, Manners, and Conversation. — The Hereditary Grand Duke.—An embarrassing Question. — Interior of the Cottage.— The Grand Duke acts as Cicerone. — Timidity in Society.—The Prince and the young Lady.—Cabinet of the Emperor. — Castle of Oranienbauni.— Fortress of Peter HI. — Account of his Assassination. — The Summer Houses of the Empress Catherine. — The Camp of Krasnacselo. - 39 A 2

IV

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVII.

Responsibility of the Emperor.—Effects of the Storm atPeter-hoff.—Death of Two Englishmen.—The Mystery in which all Occurrences are enveloped.—A Steam-Boat saved by an Englishman. — The Russian Police. — Disappearance of a Feimne de Chambre. — Politeness and Brutality united.— Cruelty of a Feldjager.— Quarrel among Work-people, and the revolting Cruelty of the Police. — The Emperor a Reformer.— The Column of Alexander. — Reform in the Language of the Court. — The Church of Saint Isaac. — Its Immensity. — Spirit of the Greek Religion. — Its Degradation. — Conversation with a Frenchman. — A travelling Prison. — Insurrection caused by a Speech of the Emperor's

—Bloody Scenes on the Volga. — History of the Poet

Fouskine.— His Duel and Death. — Fate of his ambitious

Successor. — The Poetry of Pouskine. — Effects of the Adop

tion of Foreign Languages in Russia. — Consequences of the

Rage for English Nurses and Governesses in France. — Su

periority of the Chinese. — The Confusion of Tongues. —

Rousseau.—Decline of French Literature.- Page 5G

CHAPTER XVin.

Disturbances in Russia. —Parallel between French and Russian Crimes and Cruelties. — Characteristics of Revolt in Russia.

—Order in Disorder. — Danger of inculcating liberal Ideas

among ignorant Populations. — Reasons for Russian Supe

riority in Diplomacy. — History of Thelencf, a Tale of Modern

Russia. - - - - - - - - -91

CHAPTER XIX.

Petersburg in the Absence of the Emperor. — Character of the Courtiers. — The Tchinn. — Its Nature and Origin.—Destruction of the Aristocracy. — Character of Teter the Great.

—The Tchinn divided into fourteen Classes. — An immense

Power in the Hands of the Emperor. — Opposite Opinions on

the future Influence of Russia. — Russian Hospitality.— Po

lite Formalities. — Resemblance to the Chinese. — Difference

CONTENTS.

V