danced; they all spoke low ; they amused themselves with precaution ; it seemed a,s though the Russian subjects were so broken into politeness as to be respectful even to their pleasures. In short, liberty was wanting at Peterhoff, as it is every where else in Russia.
I reached my chamber, or rather my box, after midnight. From that time, the retreat of the spectators commenced, and while the torrent swept under my window, I sat down to write, for sleep would have been impossible in the midst of so much uproar. In this country, the horses alone have permission to make a noise. Conveyances of all forms and sizes thundered along amid a crowd of men, women, and children, on foot.
It was natural life recommencing after the constraint of a royal fete. One might have supposed them prisoners delivered from their chains. The people of the road were no longer the disciplined crowd of the park. They rushed along in the direction of Petersburg with a violence and a rapidity that recalled to my mind the descriptions of the retreat from Moscow. Several accidents on the road aided the illusion.
Scarcely had I time to undress and throw myself on my bed, than I found it necessary to be again on foot, to witness the review of the corps of cadets, who were to pass before the emperor.
My surprise was great to find the court already at its post; the women in their morning dresses, the men in their coats of office; everybody awaited the emperor at the place of rendezvous. The desire of proving themselves zealous animated this em-
REVIEW OF THE CORPS OF CADETS.37
broidered crowd, who all showed so much alacrity that it seemed as if the splendour and fatigues of the night had weighed only upon me. I blushed for my indolence, and felt that I was not born to make a good Russian courtier. The chain, though gilded, did not appear to me the less heavy.
I had but just time to make my way through the crowd before the arrival of the empress, and had not yet gained my place, when the emperor commenced inspecting the ranks of his infant officers, while the empress, so overcome with fatigue the previous evening, waited for him in a caleche in the midst of the square. I felt for her, but the extreme exhaustion under which she had seemed to suffer during the ball had disappeared. My pity, therefore, turned upon myself, and I saw with envy the oldest people of the court lightly bearing the burden which I found so heavy. Ambition, here, is the condition of life: without its artificial stimulus the people would be always dull and gloomy. The emperor's own voice directed the manoeuvres of the pupils. After several had been perfectly well executed, his majesty appeared satisfied. He took the hand of one of the youngest of the cadets, led him forth from the ranks to the empress, and then, raising the child in his arms to the height of his head ; that is, above the head of every body else, he kissed him publicly. What object had the emperor in showing himself so good-natured on this day before the public? This they either could not or would not tell me.
I asked the people around me who was the happy father of the model cadet, thus loaded with the favour of the sovereign : no one satisfied my curi-
38REVIEW OF THE CIRCASSIAN GUARD.
osity. In Russia every thing is turned into mystery. After this sentimental parade, the emperor and cm-press returned to the palace of Peterhoff, where they received in the state apartments such as wished to pay their court. Afterwards, at about eleven o'clock, they appeared on one of the balconies of the palace, before which the soldiers of the Circassian guard, mounted on their superb Asiatic horses, went through some interesting exercises. The beauty of this gorgeously clad troop adds to the military luxury of a court which, notwithstanding its efforts and pretensions, is, and for a long time will remain, more oriental than European. Towards noon, feeling my curiosity exhausted, and not possessing the all-powerful stimulus of that court ambition which here achieves so many miracles to supply my natural forces, I returned to my bed, from whence I have just risen to finish this recital.
I purpose remaining here the rest of the day, in order to let the crowd pass by; and I am also detained at Peterhoff by the hope of a pleasure to which I attach much value.
To-morrow, if I have time, I will relate the success of my machinations.
COTTAGE OF FETEEHOFF.39
COTTAGE OF PETERHOFF. — A SURPRISE. — THE EMPRESS.HER
DRESS, MANNERS, AND CONVERSATION.THE HEREDITARY GRAND
?UKE. — AN EMBARRASSING QUESTION. INTERIOR OF THE COT
TAGE. THE GRAND DUKE ACTS AS CICERONE. TIMIDITY IN
SOCIETY. THE PRINCE AND THE YOUNG LADY. CABINET OF
THE EMPEROR. CASTLE OF ORANIENEAUM. FORTRESS OF
PETER III. ACCOUNT OF HIS ASSASSINATION. THE SUMMER
HOUSES OF THE EMPRESS CATHERINE, — THE CAMP OF ERAS NACSELO.
I had earnestly begged Madameto procure for
me admission to the English cottage of the emperor and empress. It is a small house which they have built in the midst of the noble park of Peterhoff, in the new Gothic style so much in vogue in England. ' Nothing is more difficult than to enter the cottage,''
replied Madame' during the time that their
majesties remain here, and nothing would be more easy in their absence. However, I will try.'
I therefore prolonged my stay at Peterhoff, wait
ing, with some impatience, but without much hope,
for the answer of Madame. Yesterday morn
ing early, I received a little note from her, thus
worded, ' Let me see you at a quarter before eleven.
I am permitted, as a very particular favour, to show
you the cottage at the hour when the emperor and
empress take their walk; that is at eleven o'clock
precisely. You know their punctuality.'
40
A SUKPEISE.
I did not fail to keep the appointment. Madame
resides at a very pretty mansion, built in a
corner of the park. She follows the empress everywhere, but she occupies, when possible, some separate house, although in the immediate vicinity of the different imperial residences. I was with her at half past ten. At a quarter before eleven we entered a carriage and four, crossed the park rapidly, and at a few minutes before eleven arrived at the gate of the cottage.
It is, as I have said, quite an English residence,
surrounded with flowers, shaded with trees, and built
in the style of the prettiest places that may be seen
near to London, about Twickenham, on the borders
of the Thames. We crossed a rather small vestibule
