mountain of granite — the church of Saint Isaac, of Petersburg. This edifice, though less stately, less beautiful in design, and less rich in ornaments than that of St. Peter's at Rome, is quite as extraordinary. It is not finished, and one cannot therefore judge of the whole, which will be a work whose gigantic pro-E 2
76
CHURCH OF ST. ISAAC.
portions will far exceed those which the spirit of the age has produced among other nations. Its materials are granite, bronze, and iron, and no other. Its colour is imposing, though sombre.
This marvellous temple was commenced under Alexander, and will soon be completed under the reign of Nicholas, by the same Frenchman, (M. de Montferrand), who raised the column.
And such efforts for the benefit of a church crippled by the civil power! Alas ! the word of God will never be heard under this roof. The temples of the Greek church no longer serve as roofs for the pulpits of truth. In scorn of the memories of the Athana-siuses and the Chrysostoms, religion is not taught publicly to the Russians. The Greek Muscovites suppress the word of preaching, unlike the Protestants, whose religion consists of nothing but that word.
The Emperor, aided by his armies of soldiers and of artists, exerts himself in vain. He will never invest the Greek church with a power which God has not given it: it may be rendered a persecuting, but it cannot be rendered an apostolical, church, — a church, that is to say which is a
SPIRIT OF THE GREEK RELIGION.
nations: the adulterous priest sold the God of heaven to the god of the world to enable him to tyrannise over men in the name of Christ; but this impious priest, while even he was killing the body enlightened the mind: for, altogether turned from the right way as he was, he nevertheless formed part of a church which possessed life and light: the Greek priest imparts neither life nor death, — he is himself a dead body.
Signs of the cross, salutations in the streets, bowing of the knees before the chapels, prostrations of old devotees upon the pavements of the churches, kissings of the hands, a wife, children, and universal contempt — such are the fruits of the priest's abdication—such is all that he has been able to obtain from tire most superstitious people in the world. What a lesson ! and what a punishment! In the midst of the triumph of his schism, the schismatic priest is struck with impotence. A priest, when he wishes to engross temporal power, perishes for the want of views sufficiently elevated to enable him to see the road that God has appointed for him; — a priest who allows himself to be dethroned by the king, for the want of courage to follow that road, equally fails in his high calling.
I cannot apologise for the wandering character of my thoughts and disquisitions, for, in passing freely from object to object, from idea to idea, I describe Russia as a whole, and show the truth as it appears to me, better than if, with a more methodical style, 1 purposely endeavoured to avoid the reproach of inconsistencies, digressions, or confusion of subjects. The state of the people, the greatness of the Em-E 3
78CONVERSATION WITH A FRENCHMAN.
peror, the aspect of the streets, the beauty of the public buildings, the degraded state of minds consequent upon the degeneration of the religious principle, all struck my eyes at the same moment, and passed so to speak, at once under my pen; and all constitute Russia, the principles of whose life reveal themselves to my thoughts in the contemplation of objects the least significant in appearance.
Yesterday I walked out with a Frenchman, an intelligent pei`son, well acquainted with Petersburg, where he resides as tutor in the family of a great nobleman. He has consequently opportunities for attaining a knowledge of the truth, entirely beyond the reach of passing travellers. He considered my views of Russia too favourable. I laugh at this reproach when I think of those which the Russians will make against me, and I maintain that I am impartial, seeing that I hate only that which appears to me evil, and that I admire all which appears good, in this, as in other lands.
This Frenchman passes his life among Russian aristocrats.
We were walking leisurely along the beautiful promenade of the Perspective Newski, when suddenly a black, or dark green coach passed before us. It was long, low-built, and closed on all sides, and much resembled an enormous coffin raised upon wheels. Four little apertures of about six inches square, crossed with iron bars, gave air and light to this moving tomb; a child of eight, or, at the most, ten years, guided the two horses attached to the machine; and, to my surprise, a considerable number of soldiers escorted it. I had scarcely time to ask my compa-
A TRAVELLING PRISON.79
nion the uses of so singular an equipage, when my question was answered by a ghastly face, which appeared at one of the air holes, and at once informed me that this carriage served to transport prisoners to the place of their destination.
' It is the travelling cell of the Russians,' said my companion; 'elsewhere, no doubt, they have similar odious objects ; but then they seek to hide them as much as they can from the public; here they make as much display of them as possible. What a government!'
' Think,' I replied, ' of the difficulties it has to encounter!'
' Ah ! you are still the dupe of their gilded words. I see the Russian authorities impose upon you whatever they please.'
' I endeavour to place myself as much as possible in their situation; nothing requires more candid consideration than the position of those who govern, for it is not they who have created the existing state of things; their business is to defend it even while prudently reforming it. If the iron rod which governs this debased people were to be removed but for one moment, society would be overturned.'
' They tell you that; but, trust me, they delight in this pretended necessity. Those who most complain of the severities they are obliged, as they say, to put in force, would renounce them with regret. In the bottom of their hearts they love a government without check or counterpoise; such a government works more easily than any other. No man willingly gives up that which makes his task more easy. Could E 4
80AN INSUERECTION.
you expect a preacher to dispense with the terrors of hell, in his efforts to convert hardened sinners ? Hell is the capital punishment of the theologians *; at first they make use of it with regret, as of a necessary evil, but they soon acquire a taste for dealing out damnation upon the greater part of mankind. It is the same thing with severe measures in politics; they are feared before they are tried, but after their success is witnessed, they are admired; and such, you may depend upon it, is the feeling too general in this country. I often think that they take pleasure in creating circumstances, under which it is necessary to inflict punishment, for fear they should get out of practice.
