praises, equally voluntary, must have the greater weight.

But these Orientals, habituated as they are to breathe and dispense the most direct incense of flattery, will be sensible to nothing but blame. All disapprobation appears to them as treachery ; they call every severe truth a fa?ehood ; they will not perceive the delicate admiration that may sometimes lurk under my apparent criticisms — the regret and, on some occasions, the sympathy that accompany my most severe remarks.

If they have not converted me to their religions (they have several, and among these, political religion is not the least intolerant), if, on the contrary, they have modified my monarchical ideas in a way that is opposed to despotism and favourable to representative government, they will be offended simply because I am not of their opinion. I regret that such is the case, but I prefer regret to remorse.

If I were not resigned to their injustice, I should not print these chapters. Besides, though they may complain of me in words, they will absolve me in their consciences: this testimony will be sufficient for me. Every honest Russian will admit that if I have committed errors of detail for want of time to

author's preface.xxi

rectify my impressions, I have described Russia in general, as it really is. They will make allowance for the difficulties which I have had to conquer, and will give me credit for the quickness with which I have, discerned the advantageous traits of their primitive character under the political mask that has disfigured it for so many ages.

The facts of which I have been witness are recorded precisely as they passed before my eyes; those which were related to me, are given as I received them ; I have not endeavoured to deceive the reader by substituting myself for the persons whom I consulted. If I have abstained from naming, or in any way indicating these persons, my discretion will undoubtedly be appreciated; it is one proof more of the decree of confidence which the enlightened indivi-duals deserve to whom I thus ventured to address myself for information respecting certain facts that it was impossible for me to observe personally. It is superfluous to add that I have only cited those to which the character and position of the men from whom I had them, gave, in my eyes, an unquestionable stamp of authority.

Aided by my scrupulous exactitude, the reader may judge for himself of the degree of authority that should be ascribed to these secondary facts, which, it may be further observed, occupy but a very small place in my narrations.

CONTENTS

OF

THE FIRST VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Arrival of the Hereditary Grand Duke of Russia at Ems. — Character of Russian Courtiers. — The Person of the Grand Duke. — His Father and Uncle at the same Age. — His Equipages and Suite. — Superiority of the English in all external Appurtenances. — The Rhine. — The River more beautiful than its Banks. — Fire-Flies on the Rhine. Page 1

CHAPTER II.

Character and Progress of German Civilisation.— Prussian

Protestantism. — Music a means of Education. — Prussia the

Auxiliary of Russia. — Luther the Personification of German

Character. — French Minister at Berlin.—Anecdote of the

Empress Catherine.—Anecdote of the Convention of Pilnitz.

Family Memoirs. — Souvenirs of the Revolution. — General

Custine. — Heroism of his Daughter-in-Law. — His Son. —

Tragic Prison Scene. — Early Impressions of Infancy.7

CHAPTER III.

Continuation of the Life of Madame de Custine.—Her Arrest. — Providential Concealment of her Papers. — Devotion of Xanette.— Scene at the tomb of Marat. — Madame de Beauharnais in Prison. —Anecdotes of Prison Life. — Interrogation of Madame de Custine. —Inspires one of her Judges

XXIVCONTENTS.

with the Desire of saving her. — The means which he uses during Six Months to retard her Execution. — End of the Reign of Terror. — Character of Robespierre. — The Prisons after his Fall. — Petition of Nanette. — Extraordinary Deliverance of Madame de Custine. — Returns to her House. — Sickness and Poverty. — Noble Conduct of Jerome. — His after History. — Journey of Madame de Custine to Switzerland.—Ballad of Le Rosier.— Lavater.— Madame de Custine under the Empire. — Her Friends. —Death in 1826. Page 2o

CHAPTER ГУ.

Conversation at Lubeck on Peculiarities in the Russian Character.— Journey from Berlin to Lubeck. — Imaginary Evils.

—Travemunde. — Character of Northern Landscapes. —

Holstein Fishermen. — Sublimity of Flat Scenery. — Nights

of the North. — It is Civilisation which heightens Admiration

of the Scenes of Nature. — The Steppes of Russia. —Burn

ing of the Steamer Nicholas I. — Road from Sehwerin to

Lubeck. — A German Statesman. — The Fair Bath-Woman

of Travemunde.—Reflections.49

CHAPTER V.

Polar Nights. — Montesquieu and his System. — Scenery of the North. — Flatness of the Earth's Surface near the Pole.

—Shores of Finland. — Melancholy of Northern People. —

Prince К. — Definitions of Nobility. — The English

Nobility. — Freedom of Speech. — Canning. — Napoleon. — Confidential Conversation. — Glance at Russian History. — Institutions and Spirit of Chivalry unknown in Russia. — The Nature of an Autocracy. — Polities and Religion are identical in Russia. — Future Influence of Russia. — Fate of

Paris. — Prince and Princess D. —The Cold-Water

Cure. — Good Manners of the Higher Orders in Russia. —

Society in France before the Revolution. — A Modern

Frenchman of the Middle Classes. — His mauvais Ton. —

Agreeable Society on the Steam-Boat. — Russian National

Dances. — Two Americans. — Steam-Boat Accident. — Isle

of Dago.---61

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