“In my school. I went to a mission school in Al-Qahira,” he explained. “The brothers there, they teach me good.”

“I’ll say.”

“I finish school two years ago. Now I work in Luxor.”

“What do you do?”

“I am guide sometimes,” he replied. “Sometimes I help my cousin with his boat. My cousin, he speaks French. We help each other.”

“I see,” nodded Kit appreciatively. “So together you cover the waterfront.”

“Here is our house.”

Kit looked up to see that they were standing outside of the largest house in the village. Oil lanterns were alight along the rooftop, illuminating a sizeable cloth marquee.

Khefri led him to the front door. “Please to come in,” he said, kicking off his shoes. “You are guest.”

“My thanks,” said Kit, removing his shoes. “If you don’t mind my asking, what year is it?”

Khefri regarded him quizzically. “You wish to know the year?”

“If possible.”

“It is the year twelve hundred and thirty-five,” replied the young man with a shrug.

“Ah,” said Kit, his heart sinking at the thought that he had seriously overshot the mark and wound up in medieval Egypt. But that erroneous assumption was swiftly overturned by the bald facts: the mission school, the oil lamps, the guide business, and all the rest.

“By the calendar of England,” Khefri continued, “it is the year one thousand eight hundred and twenty- two.”

“That’s more like it,” said Kit, not at all certain what conditions might greet him in 1822. Whatever they were, they would have to be more amenable than those that existed in the Middle Ages.

“Please to enter now.”

The interior of the house was dark and the air thick with the oily scent of heavily spiced cooking. His mouth watered and his empty stomach rumbled. Whatever they were making, Kit was certain he could eat his weight of it. He padded after his young host, who led him through the lower floor, which featured a single large room divided by a woven curtain. Rugs covered the floor, and cushions of various sizes were strewn about the perimeter; in the centre of the room stood a low table with a large round top of hammered brass. Khefri led him out to the back of the house where two women and two young girls were tending a charcoal fire over which a very large and very black cauldron was bubbling.

One of the women was spreading a thin layer of dough over the bottom of a round cast-iron vessel to make flat bread. She looked up as Khefri approached, concern visible on her round face. A word from him and she lowered her head; then, taking up a newly cooked round of wafer-thin bread, she tore it in half, rose, and, stepping around the fire, presented it to Kit.

“This is my mother,” Khefri informed him. “Her name is Mariam.”

Kit accepted the warm bread with a smile and nod. “How do you say thank you in Egyptian?”

“Shukran,” replied his young guide. “Just say shukran.”

Kit repeated the word and added her name, saying, “ Shukran, Mariam.” The young man’s mother hid her mouth and laughed, then made a comment to her son before returning to her cooking. “What did she say?” wondered Kit.

“My mother says you are very tall and not too ugly,” answered Khefri. “She thinks you would make a good husband for Bet-that is my oldest sister.”

“Please tell her that when I decide to find a wife, I will come here first,” Kit said.

This remark, when translated, was the cause of much sniggering among the women around the fire. The two younger girls stole glances at their visitor and laughed behind their hands.

Khefri’s father arrived just then and, with a show of pride, laid a hand to his chest and said, “I am Ramesses. Pleased to meet you.”

“And I am very pleased to meet you, Ramesses,” replied Kit, extending his hand. “You have the name of a very famous pharaoh.”

The elder man smiled and nodded.

“He does not speak English,” Khefri told him. “That is all he knows.”

“Tell him that Ramesses is a very famous pharaoh. Everyone in England has heard of him.”

“He knows that. Ramesses is not his real name,” the young man explained. “His real name is Copt. Very old fashioned-too difficult to pronounce. Everyone knows him as Ramesses.”

“Copt?” wondered Kit.

“We are Copts, yes,” Khefri explained. “Christians.”

“Ah.” Kit nodded. “Please thank your father for allowing me into his home. I am honoured.”

This was done under Ramesses’ benevolent smile. He spoke to his son, who translated, “May the peace of God be with you while you sojourn in our land.”

“Shukran,” replied Kit.

The village patriarch beckoned his son and guest to follow him up to the rooftop, where Kit was given a prime place in the little pavilion-a simple structure of cloth and boards on three sides and covered with palm fronds to keep off the sun. Rugs had been spread and cushions arranged for reclining.

While the elder man busied himself with lighting a small charcoal fire in a brass bowl, Kit leaned back and watched the stars come out. In a little while, when the coals in the bowl were glowing, one of the daughters brought out a hookah or, as Kit knew it, a hubble-bubble pipe, and a small packet of some unidentified substance that would be smoked. The father prepared the pipe and, giving it a few draughts to get it going, passed the hose and nozzle to Kit, indicating that he should have a puff.

Not wishing to offend his host, Kit took an exploratory draw on the tube and was rewarded with a mouthful of cool, curiously menthol-flavoured smoke, on which he promptly choked-to the roaring delight of his host. “Thanks,” gasped Kit. “That was… nice.”

Khefri took a draught and passed the hose back to his father, who then proceeded to puff away happily while plying his guest with questions as interpreted by his son. How was the health of the king? Did Kit think the king would come to Egypt? How many horses did Kit own? Did he live in a castle? Was it true that it rained in England every day? Had he ever met the king?

To these and many more, Kit gave simple, good-natured answers, albeit some of his replies were decidedly vague since he was not certain which king was on the throne. Nevertheless, his forthright responses seemed to satisfy his inquisitive host, who smoked away like a happy sultan. All the same, Kit was grateful when the meal arrived in big brass bowls-a spicy stew of mutton and aubergines with lentils, apricots, and pine nuts. This was served alongside fine, yellow couscous and eaten with the fingers. The men dipped into a communal dish, while the women and girls flitted around filling drinking cups with the local beer-a watery, sour brew that went down astonishingly well. They continually replaced the torn bread with new warm loaves.

When the men finished, the women made their meal of the remains. Kit was yawning and thinking seriously about bunching up a few cushions and closing his eyes when the entertainment for the evening arrived: four men, two with drums, one with a lute-like instrument, and one with a rattle. The musicians had been engaged solely for Kit’s benefit-an honour befitting the guest of the head man of the village-and there proceeded a lively, thumping ruckus that drove all thoughts of sleep from Kit’s weary head. A few of the neighbours showed up to lend a hand, and dancing broke out. Much to Kit’s chagrin, he was pulled into the festivities and forced to stomp about with the men while the women clapped in time to the music and laughed.

It was late-much later than he wished-when the musicians finally laid aside their instruments. They were all treated to jars of beer and then, paying their respects to their host, departed. Ramesses rose and with the pomp of a proper pharaoh wished his guest a good night.

Kit thanked him for a wonderful evening. “I don’t know when I have had a more enjoyable time,” he said, meaning every word.

“Sala’am,” said Ramesses as he disappeared down the steps, still humming a tune the musicians had played.

“You will sleep here tonight,” Khefri told him. “There is a cloth if you get cold.”

“I am sure I will be just fine.”

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