its Ship Channel. The flat tanks that store liquid fuels at atmospheric temperatures are grounded so that vapors that gather in the space below the roof don’t ignite during a lightning storm. In a world without humans to inspect and paint doubled-hulled tanks, and replace them after their 20-year life span, it would be a race to see whether their bottoms corrode first, spilling their contents into the soil, or their grounding connectors flake away—in which case, explosions would hasten deterioration of the remaining metal fragments.

Some tanks with moveable roofs that float atop liquid contents to avoid vapor buildup might fail even earlier, as their flexible seals start to leak. If so, what’s inside would just evaporate, pumping the last remaining human- extracted carbon into the atmosphere. Compressed gases, and some highly inflammable chemicals such as phenols, are held in spherical tanks, which should last longer because their hulls aren’t in contact with the ground—although, since they’re pressurized, they would explode more sensationally once their spark protection rusts away.

What lies beneath all this hardware, and what are the chances that it could ever recover from the metallic and chemical shock that the last century of petrochemical development has wreaked here? Should this most unnatural of all Earthly landscapes ever be abandoned by the humans who keep its flares burning and fuels flowing, how could nature possibly dismantle, let alone decontaminate, the great Texas petroleum patch?

HOUSTON, ALL 620 square miles of it, straddles the edge between a bluestem and grama-grass prairie that once grew belly-high to a horse and the lower piney-woods wetland that was (and still is) part of the original delta of the Brazos River. The dirt-red Brazos begins far across the state, draining New Mexico mountains 1,000 miles away, then cuts through Texas hill country and eventually dumps one of the biggest silt loads on the continent into the Gulf of Mexico. During glacial times, when winds blowing off the ice sheet slammed into warm gulf air and caused torrential rains, the Brazos laid down so much sediment that it would dam itself and as a result slip back and forth across a deltaic fan hundreds of miles wide. Lately, it passes just south of town. Houston sits along one of the river’s former channels, atop 40,000 feet of sedimentary clay deposits.

In the 1830s, that magnolia-lined channel, Buffalo Bayou, attracted entrepreneurs who noticed that it was navigable from Galveston Bay to the edge of the prairie. At first, the new town they built there shipped cotton 50 miles down this inland waterway to the port of Galveston, then the biggest city in Texas. After 1900, when the deadliest hurricane in U.S. history hit Galveston and killed 8,000 people, Buffalo Bayou was widened and deepened into the Ship Channel, to make Houston a seaport. Today, by cargo volume, it’s America’s biggest, and Houston itself is huge enough to hold Cleveland, Baltimore, Boston, Pittsburgh, Denver, and Washington, D.C., with room to spare.

Galveston’s misfortune coincided with discoveries of oil along the Texas Gulf coast and the advent of the automobile. Longleaf piney woods, bottomland delta hardwood forests, and coastal prairie soon were supplanted by drilling rigs and dozens of refineries along Houston’s shipping corridor. Next came chemical plants, then World War II rubber factories, and, finally, the fabulous postwar plastics industry. Even when Texas oil production peaked in the 1970s and then plummeted, Houston’s infrastructure was so vast that the world’s crude kept flowing here to be refined.

The tankers, bearing flags of Middle Eastern nations, Mexico, and Venezuela, arrive at an appendage of the Ship Channel on Galveston Bay called Texas City, a town of about 50,000 that has as much acreage devoted to refining as to residences and business. Compared to their big neighbors—Sterling Chemical, Marathon, Valero, BP, ISP, Dow—the bungalows of Texas City’s residents, mostly black and Latino, are lost in a townscape ruled by the geometry of petrochemistry: circles, spheres, and cylinders—some tall and thin, some short and flat, some wide and round.

It is the tall ones that tend to blow up.

Not all of them, although they often look alike. Some are wet-gas scrubbers: towers that use Brazos River water to quench gas emissions and cool down hot solids, generating white steam clouds up their stacks. Others are fractionating towers, in which crude oil is heated from the bottom to distill it. The various hydrocarbons in crude, ranging from tar to gasoline to natural gas, have different boiling points; as they’re heated, they separate, arranging themselves in the column with the lightest ones on top. As long as expanding gases are drawn off to release pressure, or the heat is eventually reduced, it’s a fairly safe process.

Trickier are the ones that add other chemicals to convert petroleum into something new. In refineries, catalytic cracking towers heat the heavy hydrocarbons with a powdered aluminum silicate catalyst to about 1,200°F. This literally cracks their big polymer chains into smaller, lighter ones, such as propane or gasoline. Injecting hydrogen into the process can produce jet fuel and diesel. All these, especially at high temperatures, and especially with hydrogen involved, are highly explosive.

A related procedure, isomerization, uses a platinum catalyst and even more heat to rearrange atoms in hydrocarbon molecules for boosting fuel octane or making substances used in plastics. Isomerization can get extremely volatile. Connected to these cracking towers and isomerization plants are flares. If any process becomes imbalanced or if temperatures shoot too high, flares are there to bleed off pressure. A release valve sends whatever can’t be contained up the flare stack, signaling a pilot to ignite. Sometimes steam is injected so that whatever it is doesn’t smoke, but burns cleanly.

When something malfunctions, the results, unfortunately, can be spectacular. In 1998, Sterling Chemical expelled a cloud of various benzene isomers and hydrochloric acid that hospitalized hundreds. That followed a leak of 3,000 pounds of ammonia four years earlier that prompted 9,000 personal injury suits. In March 2005, a geyser of liquid hydrocarbons erupted from one of BP’s isomerization stacks. When it hit the air, it ignited and killed 15 people. That July, at the same plant, a hydrogen pipe exploded; in August, a gas leak reeking of rotten eggs, which signals toxic hydrogen sulfide, shut much of BP down for a while. Days later, at a BP plastics-manufacturing subsidiary 15 miles south at Chocolate Bayou, flames exploded 50 feet in the air. The blaze had to be left to burn itself out. It took three days.

The oldest refinery in Texas City, started in 1908 by a Virginia farmers’ cooperative to produce fuel for their tractors, is owned today by Valero Energy Corporation. In its modern incarnation, it has earned one of the highest safety designations among U.S. refineries, but it is still a place designed to draw energy from a crude natural resource by transmuting it into more explosive forms. That energy feels barely contained by Valero’s humming labyrinth of valves, gauges, heat exchangers, pumps, absorbers, separators, furnaces, incinerators, flanges, tanks girdled by spiral stairwells, and serpentine loops of red, yellow, green, and silvery pipes (the silver ones are insulation-wrapped, meaning that something inside is hot, and needs to stay that way). Looming overhead are 20 fractionation towers and 20 more exhaust stacks. A coker shovel, basically a crane with a bucket on it, shuttles back and forth, dumping loads of sludge redolent of asphalt—the heavy ends of the crude spectrum, left in the bottom of the fractionators—onto conveyors leading into a catalytic cracker, to squeeze another barrel of diesel from them.

Above all this are the flares, wedges of flame against a whitish sky, keeping all the organic chemistry in equilibrium by burning off pressures that build faster than all the monitoring gauges can regulate them. There are gauges that read the thickness of steel pipe at the right-angle bends where hot, corrosive fluids smash, to predict when they will fail. Anything that contains hot liquid traveling at high speeds can develop stress cracks, especially when the liquid is heavy crude, laden with metals and sulfur that can eat pipe walls.

All this equipment is controlled by computers—until something exceeds what the computer can correct. Then the flares kick in. Suppose, though, that a system’s pressures exceeded their capacity—or suppose nobody were around to notice the overload. Normally, somebody always is, around the clock. But what if human beings suddenly disappeared while the plant was still operating?

“You’d end up with a break in some vessel,” says Valero spokesman Fred Newhouse, a compact, congenial man with light brown skin and grizzled hair. “And probably a fire.” But at that point, Newhouse adds, fail-safe control valves up and downstream from the accident would automatically trip. “We measure pressure, flow, and temperature constantly. Any changes would isolate the problem so that fire couldn’t ripple from that unit to the next one.”

But what if no one were left to fight the flames? And what if all the power died, because no one was manning any of the coal, gas, and nuclear plants, or any of the hydroelectric dams from California to Tennessee, all of which funnel electrons through a Houston grid connection to keep the lights on in Texas City? And what if the automatic emergency generators ran out of diesel, so no signal tripped the shutoff valves?

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