dressed in gleaming white, and the women robed in saffron and magenta—carried small

Ganesha statues. Young girls scattered handfuls of flowers, and pairs of adolescent boys

carried poles holding metal burners emitting clouds of incense. Amid the clash of

cymbals and the roll of drums, everyone chanted, «Ganapathi bappa Moraya, Purchya

varshi laukariya.»

«Pardon me, can you tell me what they`re chanting?» Pam turned to the copper–skinned man sitting opposite her sipping tea, the only other passenger sharing the

compartment. He was a delicate win–some man dressed in a loose white cotton shirt and

trousers. At the sound of Pam`s voice he swallowed the wrong way and coughed

furiously. Her question delighted him since he had been attempting, in vain, since the

train commenced in Bombay to strike up a conversation with the handsome woman

sitting across from him. After a vigorous cough he replied, with a squeak, «My apologies,

madam. Physiology is not always at one`s command. What the people here, and

throughout all of India today, are saying is �Beloved Ganapati, lord of Moraya, come

again early next year.`”

«Ganapati?»

«Yes, very confusing, I know. Perhaps you know him by his more common name,

Ganesha. He has many other names, as well, for example, Vighnesvara, Vinayaka,

Gajanana.»

«And this parade?»

«The beginning of the ten–day festival of Ganesha. Perhaps you may be fortunate

enough to be in Bombay next week at the end of the festival and witness the entire

population of the city walk into the ocean and immerse their Ganesha statues in incoming

waves.»

«Oh, and that? A moon? Or sun?» Pam pointed to four children carrying a large

yellow papier–mГўchГ© globe.

Vijay purred to himself. He welcomed the questions and hoped the train stop

would be long and that this conversation would go on and on. Such voluptuous women

were common in American movies, but never before had he had the good fortune to

speak to one. This woman`s grace and pale beauty stirred his imagination. She seemed to

have stepped out of the ancient erotic carvings of the Kama Sutra. And where might this

encounter lead? he wondered. Could this be the life–changing event for which he had

long sought? He was free, his garment factory had, by Indian standards, made him

wealthy. His teenaged fiancГ©e died of tuberculosis two years ago, and, until his parents

selected a new bride, he was unencumbered.

«Ah, it is a moon the children hold. They carry it to honor an old legend. First, you

must know that Lord Ganesha was renowned for his appetite. Note his ample belly. He

was once invited for a feast and stuffed himself with desert pastries called laddoos. Have

you eaten laddoos?»

Pam shook her head, fearing that he might produce one from his valise. A close

friend had contracted hepatitis from a tea shop in India, and thus far she had heeded her

physician`s advice to eat nothing but four–star–hotel food. When away from the hotel she

had limited herself to food she could peel—mainly tangerines, hard–boiled eggs, and

peanuts.

«My mother made wonderful coconut almond laddoos,” Vijay continued.

«Essentially, they are fried flour balls with a sweet cardamom syrup—that sounds

prosaic, but you must believe me when I say they are far more than the sum of their

ingredients. But back to Lord Ganesha, who was so stuffed that he could not stand up

properly. He lost his balance, fell, his stomach burst, and all the laddoos tumbled out.

«This all took place at night with only one witness, the moon, who found the event

hilarious. Enraged, Ganesha cursed the moon and banished him from the universe.

However, the whole world lamented the moon`s absence, and an assembly of gods asked

Lord Shiva, Ganesha`s father, to persuade him to relent. The penitent moon also

apologized for his misbehavior. Finally, Ganesha modified his curse and announced that

the moon need be invisible only one day a month, partially visible the remainder of the

month, and for one day only would be permitted to be visible in its full glory.»

A brief silence and Vijay added, «And now you know why the moon plays a role in

Lord Ganesha festivals.»

«Thank you for that explanation.»

«My name is Vijay, Vijay Pande.»

«And mine is Pam, Pam Swanvil. What a delightful story, and what a fantastical

droll god—that elephant head and Buddha body. And yet the villagers seem to take their

myths so seriously...as though they were really—”

«It`s interesting to consider the iconography of Lord Ganesha,” Vijay gently

interrupted as he pulled from his shirt a large neck pendant on which was carved the

image of Ganesha. «Please note that every feature on Ganesha has a serious meaning, a

life instruction. Consider the large elephant head: it tells us to think big. And the large

ears? To listen more. The small eyes remind us to focus and to concentrate and the small

mouth to talk less. And I do not forget Ganesha`s instruction—even at this moment as I

talk to you I remember his counsel and I warn myself not to talk too much. You must

help by telling me when I tell you more than you wish to know.»

«No, not at all. I`m most interested in your comments on iconography.»

«There are many others; here, look closer—we Indians are very serious people.»

He reached into the leather bag he wore on his shoulder and held out a small magnifying

lens.

Taking the glass, Pam leaned over to peer at Vijay`s pendant. She inhaled his

aroma of cinnamon and cardamon and freshly ironed cotton cloth. How was it possible

for him to smell so sweet and so fresh in the close dusty train compartment? «He has only

one tusk,” she observed.

«Meaning: retain the good, throw away the bad.»

«And what`s that he holds? An ax?»

«To cut off all bonds of attachment.»

«That sounds like Buddhist doctrine.»

«Yes, remember that the Buddha emerged from the mother ocean of Shiva.»

«And Ganesha holds something in the other hand. It`s hard to see. A thread?»

«A rope to pull one ever closer to your highest goal.»

The train suddenly lurched and began to move forward.

«Our vehicle is alive again,” said Vijay. «Note Ganesha`s vehicle—there under his

foot.»

Pam moved closer to look through the lens and inhale Vijay`s scent discreetly.

«Oh, yes, the mouse. I`ve seen it in every statue and painting of Ganesha. I`ve never

known why a mouse.»

«That`s the most interesting attribute of all. The mouse is desire. You may ride it

but only if you keep it under control. Otherwise it causes havoc.»

Pam fell silent. As the train chugged on past scrawny trees, occasional temples,

water buffalo in muddy ponds, and farms whose red soil had been exhausted by

thousands of years of work, she looked at Vijay and felt a wave of gratitude. How

unobtrusively, how gently, he had taken out his pendant and saved her from the

embarrassment of speaking irreverently about his religion. When had she ever been so

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