revved up their mobiles to start the day’s work. When we eventually disembarked, we were channelled towards two control booths immediately at the top of the ramp. They were manned by German Immigration police in dark-green jackets and washed-out yellow shirts, their spiky hair and stern faces making them look as if they’d be more at home sticking out the top of a tank than checking passports and watching for illegals.

Suzy made sure she had the guidebook in view as the two of us stepped forward. A guy in his late twenties, with a blond crewcut, flushed cheeks and rectangular frameless glasses, took our passports, looked at us, then snapped them shut before passing them back with a nod. We muttered thanks and entered Germany, following signs for taxis. Checkpoint Charlie was just a couple of Ks to the north of Bergmannstrasse, and a major tourist trap. It was as good a destination as any to give to a cabbie, before walking into the target area.

We stepped out into bright sunshine as I took a couple more antibiotics, not bothering to offer any to Suzy. The temperature was still a little cold as we lined up at the rank with about thirty others, mostly suits with their phones stuck to their ears. White Mercedes cabs filtered forwards to run the fares the dozen or so kilometres into town. We didn’t talk: there were still too many spare ears around.

When our turn eventually came, we climbed into a six- or seven-year-old Merc with plastic seats. The driver, an old Turk, didn’t need to speak English to understand Suzy’s ‘Checkpoint Charlie, mate.’

Ja, ja – Checkpoint Charlie, OK.’

We headed out of Tegel, straight into urban sprawl, and soon passed Spandau prison. We arrived at the older part of the city, driving along wide boulevards with cobbled pavements. I stared out at the place the wall had once cut through the heart of Berlin, at Potsdammer Platz. Brand-new buildings were springing up everywhere like crystal puffballs where the wall and its corridor of no man’s land, the Death Zone, had once stretched. This had to be the only major city on the planet with so much space for new development at its centre. Billions were being poured into its regeneration, with futuristic buildings, brand-new boulevards and landscaped open spaces everywhere you looked. The last time I’d been here all I’d seen was the wall, rolls of barbed-wire and the bricked-up entrance to the metro. Now Potsdammer station was shiny and new, and speeding passengers all over the city. I wondered if it was on the ASU’s list of targets.

There were no glittering puffballs springing up on the other side of the square just yet; there were derelict factories and warehouses instead, fenced off and surrounded by wasteland where other buildings had been demolished, awaiting their turn for an injection of chrome and spangle.

Then, just as quickly, we were driving past Porsche showrooms and Hugo Boss boutiques, and when we turned the next corner, Checkpoint Charlie was ahead of us. Now preserved as a monument, it looked much the same as I remembered it, only without the wall and its phalanx of armed soldiers. The white guardhouse in the middle of the road was still surrounded by sandbags, and they’d even kept the sign up warning that you were now entering the American sector or, on the flip side, that you were leaving it for East Berlin.

Tourists poured out of a coach and into the museum. As I paid the driver, an old American guy caught my eye, pointing things out to someone I guessed was his son. His uniform, these days, was jeans, a suit jacket and a pair of white tennis shoes, but he clearly still had a full stock of Checkpoint Charlie war stories.

The area on the eastern side was flattened and awaiting redevelopment, and seemed to be lined by Turks and Bosnians with stalls selling Russian fur hats and East German peaked caps and badges. Everything looked suspiciously new and had probably been knocked out last week in the same Chinese factory that supplied Penang with its ethnic masks.

We leant against the wall of a bar facing the museum and guardhouse so Suzy could get the map out. I grinned. ‘Two Brit tourists seeing the sights, moaning to each other in crap German accents that they can’t get a decent cup of tea – what could be more natural?’

She laughed as I checked traser. It was just after eleven a.m. She pulled her cell from her black leather jacket. ‘Better check comms.’ I got Geoff’s out of the bumbag and powered it up. After a few seconds of roaming, the displays on both said Deutsche Telekom. I tapped in the international code and her number, and her phone rang. We exchanged a few words before closing down.

‘Right, let’s keep an eye out for a chemist.’

Following the map, we headed south through former East Berlin, the monotonous brick buildings now covered in gig posters, graffiti and ‘Stop the War’ slogans.

We passed a housing estate of grey, depressing, rectangular chunks of concrete with windows, which they’d tried unsuccessfully to brighten up with murals of the sun, sand and sea. There was even one with a moth-eaten old Union Jack sticking out among the graffiti.

A Trabant passed us, handpainted in psychedelic colours, with posters in the windows advertising a cyber cafe.

A section of the wall nearby had been fenced off as some sort of monument.

Two policemen sat in a marked BMW police car alongside a line of shops, one of which had a large red Gothic letter A sticking out from its wall.

Apotheke .’

Suzy was pleased. ‘Perfect.’

As we got nearer, I could see that one of the officers had a big walrus moustache and more than his fair share of blubber. He reminded me of someone, and I couldn’t help but smile.

Suzy raised an eyebrow. ‘What’s up with you, Norfolk boy?’

‘I was in Berlin for a while as a squaddie. Me and a mate came here for the weekend once on the Hanover troop train. It was our first trip, we didn’t know where we were going, what we were doing – just anything to get away from the garrison for a few days. We were bumming around the bars, and got into a fight with the resident battalion. The Turks piled in as well, and the German police came and started making arrests, throwing us into the backs of vans.

‘Me and my mate – I can’t even remember his name now, Kenny, I think – landed up sitting on the benches facing each other by the rear doors. This big fat copper, just like him over there, came round and slammed them on us, but the lock didn’t engage. Kenny and I just looked at each other and, fucking right, madness not to. We pushed open the doors and started running down the road, and all we could hear was this big German trying to waddle after us, waving his truncheon, hollering and shouting for us to stop.

‘I turned round and could see him trying his hardest to catch up. No way he was going to – we were young squaddies, he looked like Hermann Goering. I don’t know why, but I stopped, turned round again, and started yelling back at him, “Wanker, lardarse!” that sort of stuff. Anyway, he was getting really pissed off. I gave him another couple of paces before I turned round to run, and bang – next thing I knew I was face down on the cobbles and Lardarse was breathing all over me. The bastard had thrown his truncheon and got me smack in the back of the head.’

Suzy shook her head and smiled. ‘Comforting to know I’m in such reliable hands.’

We entered the chemist’s and didn’t exactly have to hunt for masks and gloves. The SARS scare had hit everywhere, and the boy had plenty of choice on display. I picked up a pack of ten green ones, looking a bit like thick J-cloths. I couldn’t tell if they were N-whatever number Simon had said. Fuck it, I’d just hope for the best. Right next to them were ten-packs of latex gloves. Not quite the full NBC suit I really wanted, but better than nothing.

Suzy checked out the household section. When we met at the counter she produced two pairs of swimming goggles, and a set of four different-sized stainless-steel knives in case the hand-over didn’t go to plan.

Once outside we continued south. ‘You said Geoff was married before. What about you?’

‘Yeah, while I was in the Navy, just a kid, really.’

We stopped and checked the map together at the end of a housing estate. ‘I fucked it right up. Don’t even ask. I was eighteen, he was nineteen. There should be a law against it. Two blocks to go.’

We moved off and there was no more chat about failed marriages. Everything went serious now.

Either the buildings on Bergmannstrasse and the surrounding area had survived the Allied bombing, or they’d been perfectly restored in its old style. It looked like we were walking through a movie set for old Berlin.

Bergmannstrasse turned out to be a major thoroughfare. The kerbs on the south side were solid with cars, and the pavements were wide. It was tree-lined all the way down, with a mixture of eighteenth-century-style houses and a few newer apartment blocks. The ground floor of every building seemed to be a shopfront with an awning out, and the pavements were packed.

We stopped on a corner and had a look at the numbers. We seemed to be up in the high hundreds, so

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