and realized that he had to be British. Germans and Austrians don’t climb in puttees.
That’s when I fired the flare gun—having to remove two layers of mittens and still almost dropping the green-cased 12-gauge flare cartridge because of fingers as stiff with shock as with the cold. After setting the pistol away, I realized that my knees were weak and that perhaps I’d better sit down.
Because of the two oxygen tanks and some fragile things in the rucksack, I don’t sit on it the way I normally would on a mountainside, and within minutes the deep-space cold of the granite here on the North Face of Everest is working its way through my layers of silk and cotton and wool and goose down up to my rear end and then through my thighs and upper legs. I’m quickly and deeply chilled. Now that I’ve recognized the English puttees on the corpse, I also note the tattered wool knickerbockers and Norfolk jacket and am even more sure that this must be Percival Bromley. As I’d seen through the binoculars, he’s lying facedown with his arms raised and long, thin, bare, and sun-browned fingers sunken deep into the frozen gravel above his head and face, which are both half- buried in the loose scree.
Right now, I have no interest whatsoever in seeing the dead man’s face. As I mentioned, I’ve seen dead bodies in the mountains, but I’m not eager to see this one’s face until I must. I actively hate the thought that, responding to my flare, Reggie will be down here in a few minutes and will have to see her much-loved cousin looking like this.
Part of that feeling is embarrassment. The corpse is still mostly clothed and intact save for the visible bone of a broken right lower leg—a classic boot-top break, I think—and a few rips in the fabric across his surprisingly broad and muscled back, but goraks have been at his buttocks, and these are completely exposed. The birds—
The corpse’s hands look deeply tanned, an unusually dark brown. For a moment I wonder if this is the result of decomposition, but then I realize it’s just the same high-altitude dark tan that J.C., the Deacon, and even Reggie and I have had after five weeks and more of hiking across Tibet and shuttling loads up the Trough and the glacier here on Everest. This high-altitude UV turns even white British, French, and American skin a deep brown quickly enough. I also notice that there’s no sign of frostbite on any of the exposed skin—even on the bare backbone and shoulders revealed where his shirt and Norfolk jacket have split in the middle. And those are
I know this. My brain is still working, just in absurd slow motion—thoughts and insights arriving rather like the muted sounds of some distant explosions reaching one long after the initial flashes.
Bromley’s left leg is crossed over his right just above where the terrible break in his lower right leg shows white bone and the ripped remnants of semi-mummified ligaments.
The thought makes me ill enough that I tug down my oxygen mask in preparation to vomit. But the urge passes quickly. I realize that I’m being an absolute child—what the hell would I have done if I’d been old enough to serve in an American regiment in the Great War? Those fellows were knee-deep in decomposing bodies and dying men for the better part of a year.
I can see through the rip in the Norfolk jacket that young Bromley had been wearing seven or eight layers of clothing: an outer anorak that has turned to tatters in a year’s cold wind, the wool Norfolk jacket, at least two sweaters, some layers of cotton and silk. What I’d first taken through the binoculars for a bare and browned skull is actually a leather motorcycle helmet similar to the thin flying helmet that I’m wearing. The dead man’s leather helmet is torn and ripped in places, and I think it somewhat odd that the visible tufts of Bromley’s hair are almost white-blond at the ends but dark brown further down. Do men ever dye their hair the way women do?
I don’t see any goggle straps on the side of his buried face.
He obviously had fought—and succeeded—in stopping his tumble and slide before he went over the drop-off just twenty or so yards below us, and his arms are in the classic mode of finger-clawing self-arrest a sliding climber uses as a last resort if he’s lost his ice axe. I look up the slope but can’t see Bromley’s axe. Nor can I see the boot missing from his left foot.
The fluttering that first caught my eye comes from a web of three-eighths-inch rope, what the three of us, with some contempt, have come to call clothesline rope even though we’d used it enough in the Alps. It’s been pulled far too tight around Bromley’s waist, is looped and tangled around his left shoulder, and its broken end—I can see the frayed and splayed threads right where the rope broke—is flapping and whipping in the still-rising wind. This, then, is the “wave” I’d seen.
But the avalanche or the sheer violence of the fall has snapped the rope. God alone knows where Kurt Meyer might have ended up. Again I scan the slope above me, but can see neither a dead German nor any of my three friends coming down to join me.
I decide to wait. My hands still haven’t warmed up.
Suddenly there’s motion, but it’s not someone coming down from above—it’s a short man in a Shackleton jacket traversing directly across the steep face toward me from the east.
It’s my gasping and coughing, not the delusions, that make me realize I’ve been off English air for too long. I set my mask back in place and turn the flow up to 2.2 liters per minute. This clears my head almost immediately.
Just before the goggled and thickly garbed figure arrives, I recognize him: Jean-Claude. With the help of the oxygen, it takes me only thirty seconds or so to remember that the Deacon had said that J.C. would be coming up to Camp V with a group of Sherpas for a high carry today. He must have seen the green flare and come to investigate.
I stand, teetering just a bit, and lean uphill onto my ice axe, and Jean-Claude carefully steps around the corpse and hugs me before pulling down his mask and turning so that we are both looking down at the dead man.
I tug my own mask lower so that I can speak.
“It’s definitely Bromley,” I explain. “You see the puttees, J.C. Definitely British. You see the broken right leg. There are probably other injuries we can’t see from this angle. But I don’t think he could have fallen from as far as the North East Ridge and…you know…be in one piece like this. And definitely not from the North Ridge—this is due west, too far. He would have been almost to the Second Step, up along the ridgeline. No avalanches there.”
I’ve talked too much and breathed too little, so when my hacking starts, I put the mask back in place and bend over until the coughing fit passes.
“His right leg is broken in other places as well, Jake,” says J.C. “And you see that his right elbow looks broken too…or at least severely dislocated. I believe that the right side of this poor fellow’s body took the worst of the fall…” Jean-Claude pauses, shields his eyes—he raises his goggles for a better view, which I haven’t yet