The French are also minimalist when it comes to equipment. You won’t need any fancy utensils or machines. Steaming is the cooking method of choice for vegetables, either with a pressure-cooker (cocotte-minute) or a simple steamer that is placed inside an ordinary pot. A handheld blender (“wand”) to puree soups and vegetables is convenient, but a countertop blender will work just as well. I still swear by the BabyCook, which steams and blends in one unit. Every French family we knew had one.
Since so much emphasis is on the taste of the foods themselves, seeking out high-quality, fresh ingredients is worth your while. According to the Harvard Center for Health and the Global Environment, foods that have been locally grown tend to have higher nutritional value. Local producers also tend to select varieties for taste rather than for production value or durability for transport. This is why the French continue to seek out local markets for their vegetables, fruits, and even meats.
A comment about butter is necessary, given that it appears in many of the recipes in this book. Those so inclined should feel free to substitute vegetable oils. But my personal preference is still to use butter. The French have never really believed that butter is bad for you. In fact, it’s relatively rare to find French families who eat margarine, as they tend to reject the artificial taste and are wary of anything that has been overly processed. The French have always believed what nutritional science has now confirmed: a small amount of fat is nutritionally essential even for adults and is critical for the proper development of growing children. However, as with any fat-rich foods, the French are judicious in their use of butter. So use it sparingly, and enjoy!
Similarly, salt is optional in all of the recipes. Traditional nutrition advice for young babies emphasizes the dangers of habituating them to too much salt too early. So I never salt my baby purees or vegetable soups. For older children and adults, I find that a small dab of salted butter on top works wonders—the salt is noticeably tasty, but I’ve used a minimal quantity. This, in fact, is my general philosophy for children’s food. If I salt it at all, I sprinkle the smallest bit of salt on the dish when it is already served, just before eating. You’ll be using less salt, for better taste results. I use fine sea salt, as it dissolves more slowly and has a rounder, fuller taste.
Finally, a word about presentation. The French know that how food looks influences our desire to eat it. Small portions are usually more attractive to children; I find that it is better to serve a small amount and allow a child to ask for a second helping than to serve a large amount that is off-putting. Try using small ramekins or small bowls to encourage reluctant kids. If you don’t have these, try using other small containers—like egg cups or custard cups (small Pyrex dishes)—in which vegetables, dips, and purees can be individually served; some children find that this makes eating more fun. And remember to serve something your children like at most meals, which will tend to reassure them and make them more willing to try new things. Most important, try to enjoy eating yourself; in eating, as in so many things, our children often do as we do, rather than as we say.
Bon appétit!
List of Recipes
Soups and Purees
Sophie’s Spinach Surprise
Baby’s Vichyssoise (White Leek Soup)
Claire’s Beet Puree
Lentil Apricot Soup
Salads and Main Courses
Endive and Kiwi Salad
Vinaigrette (Classic French Salad Dressing)
Crêpes (Savory and Sweet Pancakes)
Quick No-Pastry Quiche
Tomates farcies (Stuffed Tomatoes)
Gratin de chou-fleur (Cauliflower Casserole)
Five-Minute Fish en Papillote
Bouillabaisse for Babies
Snacks and Desserts
Zesty Orange Salad
Pain d’épices (Spice Bread)
Les pommes au four (Spiced Baked Apples)
Mamie’s Chocolate-Stuffed Baguette
Mousse au chocolat (Chocolate Mousse)
Clafoutis (Sweet Cherry Soufflé)
Sophie’s Spinach Surprise
Preparation: 2 minutes
Cooking: 3 minutes
Servings: 6 to 8 “baby jar”–size servings, or four children’s servings
We devised this simple recipe in order to encourage our daughters to get used to eating green-colored food. Both of them still love this dish, even though they both eventually graduated to other green vegetables.
This dish is mild and incredibly smooth and is an easy way to introduce your children to green vegetables. The zucchini provides a light, almost fluffy, melt-in-your-mouth texture, so that the spinach tastes airy and almost sweet. If you think the dish is still bitter (although I never do), add a tiny bit of honey before serving (or reduce the proportion of spinach to zucchini).
Serve in a small bowl; I find that a little goes a long way with this puree. Top it with tiny dabs of butter in the form of a happy face; your children will love to watch them melt.
1 medium-to-large zucchini, peeled and chopped (2 cups)
1 cup water
2 or 3 big handfuls of baby spinach leaves (about 1 cup, tightly packed)
Optional: 1 teaspoon butter and, if the spinach is slightly bitter, a small spoonful of honey
1. Place the zucchini in the bottom of a pot with 1 cup of water (not too much!). Bring to a boil over high heat, lower the heat, and simmer until the zucchini becomes transparent, about 2 minutes. Immediately add the spinach leaves, letting them wilt for a minute or so. Don’t overcook the spinach! Drain the vegetables, saving the cooking water.
2. Remove the pot from the heat and blend until perfectly smooth, using as much cooking water as necessary to achieve
