Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia

a servant. The man came with a large pitcher of cold water in his hand, and poiu`ed it over his master's body between the waistcoat and the shirt. I could scarcely believe my eyes.

The prince continued the conversation without noticing my astonishment.

' The father of the reigning Due de Nassau arrived at Graffenberg entirely deprived of the use of his limbs ; the water has greatly restored him ; but as he aspires to a perfect cure, it is uncertain when he leaves. No one knows on arriving at

THE COLD WATER CURE,

87

Graffenberg how long he will remain ; the duration of the treatment depends on the complaint and the temperament of the individual; besides one cannot calculate on the influence of a passion, and this mode of using water becomes a passion with some people, who continue, indefinitely, to Hnger near the source of then supreme felicity.'

(? Prince, in listening to your account, I am ready to believe in these wonderful restilts; but when I reflect, I must still doubt their efficacy. Such apparent cures have often ill consequences; perspirations so violent decompose the blood, and often change gout into dropsy.'

' I am so persuaded of the efficacy of the cold water treatment,' replied the prince, 'that I am goiii?; to form near to me an establishment similar to that of Graffenberg.'

The Slavonians, thought I to myself, have a mania for other things besides cold water, namely, a general passion for novelties. The thoughts of this imitative people exercise themselves with the inventions of others.

Besides the personages already mentioned, there was yet another Russian princess on board our vessel.

This lady, the princess L, was a most agreeable

person in society : our evenings passed delightfully in listening to Russian airs, which she sang with pleasing exeeiition, and which were quite new to me.

The princess Dtook parts with her, and even

sometimes accompanied the airs with a few graceful steps of some Cossack dance. These national exhibitions and impromptu concerts agreeably suspended our conversations, and made the hours pass like moments.

88 GOOD MANNERS OF ТПЕ HIGHER ORDERS.

True models of good taste and of sociable manners are only to be found in aristocratic lands. There, none think of «nvincc themselves those comme il faut airs which spoil society in places infested by parvenus. In aristocratic circles, each member feels himself in his proper place, all are accustomed to the same society, and even where there is no sympathy, there is an intimacy that produces ease and confidence. The parties understand the slightest allusions that occur in conversation ; each recognises his own manner of thinking in the language of the rest; all so dispose themselves towards each other as though expecting to pass through life in company; and travellers destined to remain together for a length of time understand each other better than those who meet for only an hour. From this necessary harmony springs general politeness, which is not, however, unvaried in its aspect, A delicate shading still marks the diversity of minds ; and elegance of discourse embellishes all that is said, without doing injury to anything: for the truth of sentiments loses nothing by the sacrifices which delicacy of expression requires. Thus, thanks to the security which is established in all exclusive society, constraint disappears, and conversation throws off the coarseness without losing the charm of freedom.

Formerly, in France, every class of citizens could enjoy this advantage. There are many causes, into which I shall not here enter, that have deprived us of it; above all others is the improper mixing of the men of all classes.

These men congregate to gratify their vanity, instead of meeting for pleasure. Since society has

I`KENCHMAN OF THE MIDDLE CLASSES. 89

been thus thrown open, freedom has vanished from it altogether, and easy manners are no longer known in France. English stiffness and gravity have taken their place : these are indispensable weapons in a mixed society. But the English, in learning to make use of them, have at least sacrificed nothing, whereas we have lost all those embellishments which constituted the charm of life. A man who believes, or wishes to have it believed, that he belongs to good society because he has access to such or such a salon cannot be an agreeable companion. Real refinement is a thing good in itself; copied refinement is like all other affectation, evil.

Our new society is founded on ideas of democratic equality, and these ideas have brought ennui in the place of our former pleasures. It is not an extensive circle of acquaintance which renders society agreeable, it is to know well those whom you have chosen, Society is only a means, of which the end is intimacy.

Our Russian ladies have admitted into their little circle a French merchant, who is among the passengers. He is a man rather past the middle age, full of great schemes connected with steam-boats and railroads, but still exhibiting all his former youthful pretensions: agreeable smiles, gracious mien, winning grimaces, plebeian gestures, narrow ideas, and studied language. He is, notwithstanding, a good fellow, speaking willingly, and even well, when he speaks on subjects with which he is conversant, amusing also, though self-sufficient, and sometimes rather prosy.

He is going to Russia to electrify certain minds in favour of some great industrial undertakings. He

90MAUVAIS TON OF A FRENCHMAN,

travels as agent for several French commercial houses who have associated, he says, to carry into effect these important objects ; but his head, although full of grave commercial ideas, finds place, nevertheless, for all the songs and bon mots that have been popular in Paris for the last twenty years- Before turning merchant he had been a lancer, and he has preserved, in his air and attitudes, some amusing traces of Iris former profession. He never speaks to the Russians without alluding to French superiority in matters of every description; but his vanity is too palpable to become offensive, or to excite anything beyond a laugh.

When singing he casts tender glances upon the ladies; when declaiming the Parisienne and the Marseillaise) he folds his cloak around liim with a theatrical air : Iris store of songs and sayings, although rather jovial in character, much amuses our fair strangers. In listening to him they seem to believe they are on a visit to Paris. The mauvais ton of this specimen of French manners by no means strikes them, because they do not comprehend its source or its scope; a language which they cannot understand cannot disgust them; besides, persons belonging to really good society are always the last to be annoyed or alarmed. The fear of being lowered in position does not oblige them to take offence at everything that is said.

The old Prince Кand myself laugh between

ourselves at the language to which they listen; they laugh on their part with the innocence of an ignorance unacquainted with the point where good taste ceases, and where French vulgarity begins.

Vulgarity commences so soon as the individual