Among these thousand, all more or less blazing with gold and diamonds, was the Khan of the Kirguises, whom I had seen at the chapel in the morning. I remarked also an old Queen of Georgia, who had been dethroned thirty years previously. This poor woman languished, unhonoured, at the court of her conqueror. Her face was tanned like that of a man's used to the fatigues of the camp, and her attire was ridiculous. ЛУе are too ready to laugh at misfortune when it appears under a form that does not please us. ЛУе should wish to see a Queen of Georgia rendered more beautiful by her distress; but we here see just the contrary, and, when the eyes are displeased, the heart soon becomes unjust. This is
234THE RUSSIAN COURT-DRESS.
not generous, but I confess I could not help smiling to see a royal head crowned with a kind of shako, from whence hung a very singular veil. All the other ladies wore trains; but the queen of the East had on a short embroidered petticoat. There was much of the worn-out and wearied courtier in her expression, and her features were ugly. The national dress of the Russian ladies at court is antique and striking. They wear on the head a kind of tower, formed of rich stuff, and something resembling in shape the crown of a man's hat, lowered in height, and open at the top. This species of diadem is generally embroidered with jewels: it is very ancient, and gives an air of nobleness and originality to handsome persons, while it singularly enhances the ugliness of plain ones. Unfortunately, these last are very numerous at the Russian court, from whence people seldom retire, except to die, so attached are the aged people to the posts they there occupy. In general, female beauty is rare at Petersburgh ; but among the higher classes the charm of graceful manners often supplies the place of elegant forms and regular features. There are, however, a few Georgian women who unite the two advantages. These females shine amid the women of the north, like stars in the profound darkness of a southern night. The shape of the court robes, with their long sleeves and trains, gives to the whole person an oriental aspect which, in a large assembly thus robed, has a very imposing effect.
An incident, singular enough in its character, has afforded me a specimen of the perfect politeness of the emperor.
THE SUPPEE.
235
During the ball, a master of the ceremonies had indicated to such of the foreigners as appeared for the first time at this court, the places that were reserved for them at the supper-table. 'When you see the ball interrupted,' he said to each of us, ' follow the crowd into the gallery, where you will find a large table laid out; take the side to the right, and seat yourselves in the first places you find unoccupied.'
There was but one table, laid with one thousand covers, for the
A Genevese, an intelligent and well-educated young man, had been presented the same evening in the uniform of a national guard, a dress which is in general anything but agreeable to the emperor; nevertheless, this young Swiss appeared perfectly at home. TThether it was owing to natural assurance, republican ease, or pure simplicity of heart, he seemed neither to think of the persons around him, nor of the effect that he might. produce upon them. I envied Ins perfect self-confidence, which I was far from participating. Our manners, though very different, had the same success ; the emperor treated us both equally well.
An experienced and intelligent person had recommended to me, in a tone half serious, half jocose, to maintain a respectful and rather timid air if I wished to please the monarch. This counsel was quite superfluous, for if I were to enter the hut of a collier, in order to make his acquaintance, I should experience
236THE GENEVESE AT SUPPER.
some little degree of physical embarrassment, so naturally do I shrink from society. A man has never German blood without showing it; I possessed, therefore, naturally, the degree of timidity and reserve requisite to satisfy the jealous majesty of the Czar, who would be as great as he wishes to appear, if he were less prepossessed with the notion that those who approach him are likely to fail in respect. This inquietude of the emperor does not, however, always operate ; of which, and of the natural dignity of that prince, the following is an instance.
The Genevese, far from partaking of my old-fashioned modesty, was perfectly at his ease. He is young, and has about him all the spirit of the age mingled with a simplicity of his own ; and I could not but admire his air of assurance each time the emperor addressed him.
The affability of the monarch was soon put by the young Swiss to a decisive proof. On passing into the banquet hall, the republican, turning towards the right, according to the instruction he had received, came across the little round table, and intrepidly seated himself before it, though there was no other person there to keep him company. The moment after, the crowd of guests being placed, the emperor, followed by some officers who enjoyed his special confidence, advanced and took his scat at the same table at which was placed the worthy Swiss national guardsman. I should state that the empress was not at this table. The traveller remained in his chair with the imperturbable ease which I had already so much :idmired in him, and which, under the circumstances, was really admirable,
POLITENESS OF THE EMPEEOR.237
A seat was wanting, for the emperor had not expected this ninth guest; but, with a politeness the completeness of which was equivalent to the delicacy of a kind heart, he spoke in a low voice to a servant, directing; him to bring a chair and another cover, which was done without any noise or trouble.
Being placed at the extremity of the great table,
close to that of the emperor, this occurrence could
not escape my observation, nor, consequently, that of
him who was its object. But, this happily-consti
tuted young man, far from troubling himself because
he perceived he had been placed contrary to the in
tention of the sovereign, maintained, with the most
perfect
est neighbours, which lasted during the whole repast.
I thought to myself, he has good sense ; he does not
wish to make a public display: but, no doubt, he
only waits the moment when the emperor rises, to ap
proach him, and to offer some word of explanation.
Nothing of the kind ! When supper was over the
young Swiss, far from excusing himself, seemed to
view the honour he had received as nothing more
than was quite natural. On returning to his lodg
ing he would doubtless inscribe, with the most per
fect simplicity, in his journal — ' Supped with the
emperor.' However, his majesty rather abridged
the pleasure : rising, before the guests who sat at the
