everything Amerikan as if they aren’t here but there. They
have Amerikan radio and newspapers and food wrapped in
plastic and frozen food and dishwashers and refrigerators and
ranch-type houses for officers and trailers and supermarkets
with Amerikan brands o f everything. The wives and children
never go o ff the bases; afraid o f the darkies, afraid o f food
without plastic wrap, they don’t see the ancient island, only
Amerikan concrete and fences. The Amerikan military is
always here; the bases are always manned and the culturally
impoverished wives and children are always on them; and it is
just convenient to let the Vietnam boys rest here for now, the
white ones. The wives and the children are in the ranch-type
houses and the trailers. They are in Greece, on the island o f
Crete, a place touched by whatever gods there ever were,
anyone can see that, in fact Zeus rests here, one mountain is his
profile, it is Crete, a place o f sublime beauty and ancient
heritage, unique in the world, older than anything they can
imagine including their own God; but the wives and the
children never see it because it is not Amerikan, not the
suburbs, not pale white. The women never leave the bases.
The men come o ff to drink ouzo and to say dirty words to the
Greeks and to call them dirty names and laugh. Every other
word is nigger or cunt or fucking and they pick fights. I know
about the bases because an Amerikan doctor took me to one
where he lived in a ranch-type house with an Amerikan
kitchen with Formica cabinets and General Electric appliances.
The Greeks barely have kitchens. On Crete the people in the
mountains, mostly peasants, use bunsen burners to cook their
food. A huge family will have one bunsen burner. Everything
goes into one pot and it cooks on the one bunsen burner for ten
hours or twelve hours until late night when everyone eats. -
They have olive oil from the olive trees that grow everywhere
and vegetables and fruit and small animals they kill and milk
from goats. The fam ily will sit at a w ood table in the dark with
one oil lamp or candle giving light but the natural light on
Crete doesn’t go aw ay when it becomes night. There is no
electricity in the mountains but the dark is luminous and you
can see perfectly in it as if God is holding a candle above your
head. In the city people use bunsen burners too. When
Pappous makes a feast he takes some eggs from his chickens
and some olive oil and some potatoes bought from the market
for a few drachma and he makes an omelet over a bunsen
burner. It takes a long time, first for the oil to get really hot,
then to fry the potatoes, and the eggs cook slow ly; he invites
me and it is an afternoon’s feast. If people are rich they have
kitchens but the kitchens have nothing in them except running
cold water in a stone sink. The sink is a basin cut out o f a
