34 22 63. Train station: Meudon-Val Fleury on Line C of the RER. Open Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday, 2–6 p.m.

La Forge de Belleville, 23–5 rue Ramponeau, 75020. Métro: Belleville. For events and art classes, check www.tracesbelleville.org. However, due to the dispute between the different groups of artists in the studios, the information might not be exhaustive.

Guy Honore, ceramic artist, 14, rue Dénoyez, 75020. Métro: Belleville.

Journées Portes Ouvertes (artists’ open days), see listings at:

www.parisgratuit.com/ateliers.html

www.ateliers-artistes-belleville.org

www.ateliersdemenilmontant.org

www.montmartre-aux-artistes.org

and others.

Musée Marmottan, 2 rue Louis Boilly, 75016. Tel: 01 44 96 50 33. Métro: Muette. Website: www.marmottan.com. Open every day except Monday, 11 a.m.–6 p.m., and Tuesdays till 9 p.m.

Paul Prouté, 74 rue de Seine, 75006. Tel: 01 43 26 89 80. Métros: Mabillon, Odéon.

Villa Mallebay, starts at 88 rue Didot, 75014. Métros: Pernety, Alésia.

12 Apartments

De Particulier à Particulier property sales magazine, commonly called Le Particulier for short, comes out every Thursday. All ads also appear on their website, www.pap.fr.

APPENDIX 2

FURTHER READING

THERE ARE A DIZZYING NUMBER of books about Paris, including my own. Here are some classics written by French authors. They’re mainly fictional works, but no less accurate for that.

Guy de Maupassant was a fun-loving civil servant who finally succumbed to syphilis. In short, an archetypal nineteenth-century Parisian gentleman. His Mademoiselle Fiji is a collection of short, easy-to-read stories published in 1882. One of these is ‘Une Aventure parisienne’, the tale of a provincial wife who comes to Paris to ‘try vice’. She samples absinthe, artists, theatres and casual sex. Another of the stories, ‘Nuit de Noël’, is about a young man who decides to go out and find a prostitute to share his Christmas dinner. And to act as dessert, of course. He finds a pretty, plump girl, takes her home and gets a surprise when they go to bed.

Emile Zola’s Le Ventre de Paris (1873) and Au Bonheur des Dames (1883) are two portraits of Paris by a man who would have been making social documentaries if TV had been invented. Le Ventre de Paris is all about the food markets at Les Halles and the way that the well-fed Parisians allow both their tummies and their political convictions to go flabby. Au Bonheur des Dames is a kind of antidote to the Shopaholic novels—Zola describes the working conditions in Paris’s first department store.

J.-K. Huysmans (who clearly inspired Harry Potter’s creator when she was looking for a nom de plume) was a Parisian writer who dabbled in Satanism and general decadence before settling down to become an author. His Croquis parisiens (1880) are, as their name suggests, short sketches of the racy Paris he knew, including the Folies-Bergère.

Raymond Queneau’s novel Zazie dans le Métro is a book that really should be read in French, and read aloud. Queneau plays constant games with phonetic transcriptions of the way working-class Parisians spoke at the end of the 1950s. It’s the story of a brattish provincial twelve-year-old, Zazie, who comes to Paris to see the métro, and gets swept away by the surreal nocturnal activities of her uncle Gabriel, a heterosexual man who is forced to make a living as a cross-dressing cabaret artist. The novel is so much fun that it is almost impossible to believe Queneau was a mathematician and an associate of the elitist, humourless Jean-Paul Sartre.

Photo Acknowledgements

xiv: © Bettman/Corbis; 23: SaverioTruglia/Getty Images; 28: Roger-Viollet/Getty Images; 44: Frank Huster/Getty Images; 47: David Allan Brandt/Getty Images; 52: © John Kellerman/Alamy; 60: Getty Images; 63: Getty Images; 68: Roger-Viollet/Getty Images; 80: author’s photo; 98: Roger-Viollet/Getty Images; 120: Roger-Viollet/Getty Images; 124: Owen Franken/Corbis; 129: AFP/Getty Images; 133: Keenpress/Getty Images; 154: Benaroch/Rex Features; 167: Roger-Viollet/Rex Features; 174: Getty Images; 184: Jacques Pavlovsky/Sygma/Corbis; 195: Bob Peterson/Getty Images; 198: Getty Images; 206: © Photos 12/Alamy; 216: AFP/Getty Images; 228: © Iain Masterton/Alamy; 243: Getty Images; 258: Clément Guillaume/Getty Images; 270: Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images.

INDEX

A  |  B  |  C  |  D  |  E

F  |  G  |  H  |  I  |  J

K  |  L  |  M  |  N  |  O

P  |  Q  |  R  |  S  |  T

U  |  V  |  W  |  Z

A Bout de Souffle (film about smoking in bed) 223

Abbesses métro station, Guimard entrance 91

accommodation

not worth complaining about 24

see also apartments; hotels

AD&MCF (fashion designers) 209–10

African community 15–16, 82

hairdressers’ touts 12

aggression, perfectly good reasons for 3–4

air-conditioning, unromantic 141

Aligre market 13, 180, 285

Allen, Woody (filmmaker)

with Carla Bruni 216

sexiness in Parisians’ eyes 218

Alma, see Pont

Alma-Marceau 88

Alsatian cuisine (nothing to do with dogs) 190

American rap culture, influence on French art 236–7

American Revolution 87

Americans

reading newspapers in the 6th arrondissement 263

with second homes in the Marais 8

Amicale Bouliste des Arènes de Lutèce 105

Amour, Hôtel 144, 283

Anderson, Pamela (actress), at Crazy Horse club 170

Annaud, Jean-Jacques (filmmaker) 217

annoying, how not to be 19–27

anti-social behaviour, Parisian, pride in 1–2

Anvers métro station 82

apartment buildings, value 260–2

apartments

buying 259, 262–78

direct from owners 267–77

renting 259–62

après vous, usage 26

Arago boulevard

artists’ studios 239

last surviving pissoir 41

arbres d’alignement 45-6

Archives, rue des, gay area 8

Arènes de Lutèce 103–5, 283

Arletty, actress 223

Arp, Jean (Hans) (artist) 242–6

artworks prices 249, 252

arrondissements 3, 5, 6–17

1st 7, 34, 35

2nd 7

3rd 8

4th 8–9

5th 9, 140

6th 9–10

7th 5, 10

8th 11, 200, 213

9th 11–12

10th 12

11th 5, 12–13

12th 13

13th 13–14

14th 14

15th 14, 86

16th 5, 14–15, 89

17th 15, 91

18th 15–16, 90

19th 5, 16

20th 5, 16–17

posh, affordable apartments 262–3

art 229–57

auctions, Drouot sales rooms 253–7

galleries, small 250–2

museums 241–6

Art Deco murals, La Coupole 149

Art Nouveau 75–6

boudoir 118–19

glass 117

see also Guimard

artists’ studios 238–41

purpose-built 238

subsidized 240–41

Arts et Métiers métro station 90

artworks prices 249–57

Assemblée Nationale 10

August, Paris empty in 224

Aujourd’hui (newspaper) 1

Austerlitz, see Gare

Australian hairdressing 212

Auvergnat cuisine 190

Avenue, L’ (restaurant) 11

bacteria, everyday exchange of 182–3

bad driving 17, 147, 224

Bagnolet, rue de 17

baguettes

and bacteria 183, 188–9

in literature 186

testing 183–9

see also Grand Prix de la Baguette

Balard - Créteil Préfecture: métro line 8 87–8

balloon rides, Parc André Citroën 89, 282

ballooning

and Eiffel Tower 117

early 141

Olympic event 72n

Balzac, Honoré de (writer), in dressing gown on métro platform 92

bandes dessinées (BD) 235

Bandits Manchots (fashion label) 209–10, 285

banlieusards, grudging respect for 5–6

Bar Ourcq 16, 132

Barbès 15–16

métro station, see Barbès–Rochechouart

Barbès–Rochechouart métro station 76–7, 82

bar, in café, etiquette for drinking at 19

Basilique de Saint-Denis 91, 282

Basque cuisine 14

Bassin de la Villette 16, 41, 58, 130–2, 283

Bastille 12–13

flood preparations 62

métro station 68, 76, 82, 85

bateaux-mouches 57, 58

invention of 137

Batobus river shuttles 57

Baudelaire, Charles (poet, pioneer flâneur) 30

beaches, artificial 57–8

Beaubourg (Centre Pompidou) 8, 54,

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