flea market 89
Flèche d’Or 17
Fleming, Ian (writer) 155
flood, 1910 59–61, 62, 64, 74
anticipated 61–4
Flore, Café de 99, 283
florists 153
Fluctuat nec mergitur 53
Folies (orgy venues) 162
Folies-Bergère 138, 162, 169
Fondation Arp 244–6, 286
Fontaine Maubuée 54
Fontaines Wallace 55–6
guided tour 65
food 175–97
allergy sufferers, warning to 20
hygiene, Parisian 182–3
markets, street 179–82
see also chèvre chaud
Forge, La 236–8, 286
Forum des Images 226–7, 285
fountains 54–6
Fourche, La, métro station 91
Fournel, Victor (writer), Paris Nouveau et Paris Futur 115–16
franchement!, usage 26
François I, King, sex life 161–2
François II, King 107
François Premier, rue 11
Francs Bourgeois, rue des 100
Franklin D. Roosevelt métro station 88–9
Franks, seize Paris 106 freshness testing 175
Frison, Marie-Christine (fashion designer) 209–13
Frochot, rue 145
Gabriel Péri Asnières: métro line 13 91–2
Gainsbourg, Serge (singer) 90, 93
‘Je t’Aime, Moi Non Plus’ 172–3
Galerie des Machines 117
Galeries Lafayette 11, 86, 151
Galliano, John (fashion designer) 204, 207, 212
Gallo-Roman remains 102–5
Gambetta–Porte des Lilas: métro line 3bis 93
gaps, minding, métro 96–7
Gare dAusterlitz: métro line 10 89
Gare de l’Est
artists’ community 241
Haussmann and 114
Gare de Lyon, Haussmann and 114
Gare du Nord 12
métro station,
dangerous arrows 85
Gare Saint-Lazare 59
Gauguin, Paul (artist) 239
Gaultier, Jean-Paul (fashion designer) 102, 210
gays, rue des Archives 8–9
Genet, Jean (writer) 41
Gennevelliers/Saint-Denis-Université: métro line 13 91–2
gentrification, Haussmann and 114
German occupation, see Nazi occupation
Germanic invasion, 3rd century 103
Giscard d’Estaing, Valéry (ex-Président) 122
Giverny 247–8
Gladines, Café 14
global brand conspiracy 199
graffiti, on vans 181
graffiti artists 235
Grand Blond avec une Chaussure Noire, Le (film) 225–6
Grand Palais 74, 117, 119, 121
Grand Prix de la Baguette de Paris, judging 185–9
Grande Épicerie, La 10
Grandes Écoles, Hôtel des 284
Grant, Cary (actor) 226
Great Exhibition 1851 202
Great War 119
Grenier à Pain boulangerie 189, 285
Grève, place de la 57
Grévy, Jules (ex-Président) 104
Grosse Bertha, bombardments 119
Guimard, Hector (architect) 68, 75–6, 82, 91
Guitry, Sacha (actor) 17 Guy Laroche (fashion designer) 225
Guy Moquet métro station 92
habitations à loyer modéré (HLM) 3
with artist’s studio 240–1
hairdressing salons, names 50–1
Haussmann boulevard 110
Haussmann, Georges Eugène, aka Baron (city planner) 54, 58, 65, 101, 111–14
Hemingway, Ernest (writer and drinker) 140, 141
Henri IV, King 107–8, 128
Hirst, Damien (artist) 249
history museum, see Musée Carnavalet
HLM, see habitations à loyer modéré
homeless people, Plan Neptune and 61-2
hommes, archetypal Parisian 15
homonyms, clothes 213–14
Honoré, Guy (artist) 235, 286
Hôtel Amour 12, 144–7
Hôtel de Ville 35, 220
and Seine 57
bombardments 111
place de l’, increased squareness of 113
Hôtel des Grandes Écoles 140–1
Hôtel du Nord (film) 223–4
Hôtel Meurice, bullet holes in 36
hotels
choosing 139–47
love hotel 144
rules for conduct 24–5
hôtels de passe 144–7, 159
hôtels particuliers 8, 100
housing, low-cost, see HLMs
Huet, Edmond (métro builder) 71
Hugo, Victor (writer) 89, 104
Huysmans, J.-K. (writer), Croquis parisiens 290
hygiene, Parisian 182–3
Île de la Cité 99, 112
Île Saint-Louis 103 impatience, explained 4
Impressionists 229, 230–2, 242, 247–9
Indian (southern) restaurants 190n
industrial buildings, romantic 131–2
Institut de France 128
Institut de Veille Sanitaire 182–3
International Herald Tribune (newspaper) 263
intra muros, see arrondissements
Jacobs, Marc (fashion designer) 204
Japanese restaurants 190
Javacheff, Christo (artist) 251
Javel-André Citroën métro station 89
Jewish people
commemorative street plaques 35
rue des Rosiers 8–9
Joan of Arc 106
jobs, film industry 220–1
Joinville food market 180–2; 285
Josephine (Napoleon’s) 136, 157–8, 246, 249
Jourdain area 16, 220
Journal des Débats (magazine) 62
Journées Portes Ouvertes 234–8, 286
Joyce, James (writer) 9, 140, 245
Kafka, Franz (writer) 94
Kandinsky, Wassily (artist) 244
Keller, rue 13
kettles, bringing your own 24
kiosks, newspaper 36–7
kiosquiers 36–8
kitsch preferred to chic 151
Lafayette, Marquis de (war hero) 87
Lagerfeld, Karl Otto (fashion designer) 204–5, 206, 207, 210, 212
Lamartine place, mineral water fountain 56
Landreville, Arsène-Olivier de (engineer) 71
Lapin Agile 169
Latin Quarter 89
commemorative street plaques 35–6
Left Bank
intellectual sewage 65
water-themed tour 65
Léger, Fernand (artist) 149
Lélio (artist) 238–9, 240
Lelouch, Claude (filmmaker) 224
Lemoine, Serge (museum director) 247
Lenclos, Ninon de (writer/courtesan) 125
Lepic, rue 16
Leroy, Louis (art critic, coined term Impressioniste) 231
Les Halles (modern) 7, 8, 121, 123
Les Halles (original)
demolition 121
Zola on 175–6, 179
Lévy, Bernard-Henri (philosopher/socialite) 157, 173
Lido 169
Life magazine 126
Ligue pour la Protection des Grillons dans le Métro Parisien (LPGMP) 78
lime trees 45–6
live-music venues 16
location filming 218–23
London, Napoleon III and 112
Louis Blanc–Pré Saint-Gervais: métro line 7bis 93
Louis VII, King 54
Louis XIV, King
and fashion industry 201–2
sex life 157
Louis XV, King, sex life 157
Louis XVI, King 135, 150–1
and the potato flower 84
prison cell 108–9, 110
Louis XVIII 110
Louis-Charles (son of Louis XVI) 108–9
Louis-Philippe, King 112
Louvre 7, 228, 242
and Seine 57, 59
bombardments 111
flood preparations 61
Pyramid 113, 123, 222
Louvre-Rivoli, métro station 76
love, see hotels; romance; sex
Lumière brothers 72
Lutetia 102–5
Lycée Janson de Sailly 36
Lyon, Victor (financier/art collector) 242
Madone, place de la, mineral water fountain 56
Madonna (singer) 143
Mairie d’Issy–Porte de la Chapelle; métro line 12 90–1
Mairie d’lvry/Villejuif–Louis Aragon; métro line 7 86–7
Mairie de Montreuil: métro line 9 88–9
Mairie des Lilas: métro line 11 89–90
Maison de la Radio 61
maisons d’abattage 163, 166
maisons de tolérance, Napoleon and 158
Malraux, André (writer, politician) 229
Mama Shelter Hotel 17
Manet, Edouard (artist) 230
Maraîchers métro station 78
Marais 7, 8–9, 31, 34, 99, 100
1960s demolition 121
marchands de l’eau 53–4 Marianne (magazine), survey 3
Marie Antoinette (wife of Louis XVI) 110, 150–1
marketing, fashion 208–9
markets, street
cleaning after 39
food 179–82
second-hand 48–50
see also flea
Marronniers, Les 9
Marville, Charles (photographer) 113
Mary Queen of Scots 107
Matisse, Henri (artist) 149, 232, 237
Maupassant, Guy de (writer), Mademoiselle Fifi 289
McCartney, Stella (fashion designer) 204, 207
McQueen, Alexander (fashion designer) 204
meals, ordering properly 19
media ghetto 16
Ménilmontant métro station 77
menus, translated into several languages 196
métro 69–97
chansons 93
commuting 3–4
crickets 78–9
disaster 1903 76–7
history 69–77
rules for conduct 95–7
stations, Guimard’s 68, 75–6, 82, 91
métro lines 81–93
1: Château de Vincennes–La Défense 81–2
2: Nation–Porte Dauphine 82
3: Pont de Levallois–Bécon 83-4
3bis: Gambetta–Porte des Lilas 93
4: Porte de Clignancourt–Porte d’Orléans 84
5: Bobigny-Pablo Picasso–Place d’ltalie 85
6: Nation–Charles de Gaulle-Étoile 85–6
7: La Courneuve–8 Mai 1945–Mairie d’lvry–Villejuif-Louis Aragon 86–7
7bis: Louis Blanc–Pré Saint-Gervais 93
8: Balard–Créteil Préfecture 87–8
9: Pont de Sèvres–Mairie de Montreuil 88–9
10: Boulogne-Pont de Saint-Cloud–Gare d’Austerlitz 89
11: Châtelet–Mairie des Lilas 89–90
12: Mairie d’Issy–Porte de la Chapelle 90–1
13: Châtillon–Montrouge–Gabriel Péri Asnières-Gennevilliers/Saint-Denis-Université 91–2
14: Saint-Lazare–Olympiades 92–3
avoiding rush hour 95
directions 79–81
literature 94
Metternich, Princess 203
microchips, embedded in trees 46
middle-class families 14
mineral water fountains 56
Ministry of Culture 7
Ministry of Finance 86
Mission Cinéma 220–3, 226
Mitterrand, François (ex-Président) 123
MK2 Quai de Loire 131, 132, 284
MK2 Quai de Seine 131, 284
models, fashion 200
Modigliani, Amedeo (artist) 239
Molière (writer) 89
Mona Lisa 228, 242
Monceau parc, Haussmann and 114
Monde, Le (newspaper) 37
Monet, Claude (artist) 247–9
at Giverny 247–8
Impression: Soleil Levant 230–1, 248–9
Monge, rue 104
Monnaie de Paris 87
Monroe, Marilyn (actress), as restaurant décor 151, 152
Montaigne, Avenue 11, 89, 200
Montesquieu, Charles de Secondat, Baron de (writer) 175
Montmartre 13, 106, 240
clichéd view of 15
springs 54
water-themed tours 65
Montorgueil, rue 7
Montparnasse 86
boulevard du 14
Montparnasse-Bienvenüe métro
