Montreuil 220
Montsouris parc, Haussmann and 114
Môquet, Guy (Resistance martyr) 92
Morisot, Berthe (artist) 249
morning noises 139
Motte-Picquet-Grenelle métro station 86
Mouffetard, rue 9
Moulin Rouge 169
Muette, La, métro station 15
Musée Carnavalet 30, 100–18, 177, 283
Musée d’Orsay 10, 247, 249
Musée de l’Érotisme 160–8, 285
Musée du Moyen Âge 283
Musée Guimet 242
Musée Gustave Moreau 242
Musée Marmottan-Monet 15, 248–9, 287
Musée Rodin 92, 242
Nanterre 102
Napoleon Bonaparte 110
and Josephine 136, 157–8
bringer of water 53
loses virginity 135–6
legalizes brothels 158
memorabilia 249
Napoleon III
and art 230
and Paris remodelling 111–14
and Savoyards 253
Nation–Porte Dauphine: métro line 2 82
Navarin, rue de 12, 145
Nazi occupation
1944 uprising 83, 119
and brothels 166–8
commemorative street plaques 35–6
Nemours, Le (café) 7
Neuilly Sa Mère (film) 6
New York Times (newspaper), readers 2
Nina Ricci 200, 209, 210
Nordling, Raoul (Swedish ambassador) 36
nostalgia 99
and sex 158–60, 162–3, 164, 173
Notre-Dame 109, 128
construction 106
number plates 33
numbers, in French, how not to confuse 256–7
Oberkampf area 13
Odéon 10
Olympiades: métro line 14 92–3
Olympic Games 1900 72
Opéra district, Haussmann and 113
Opéra
métro station, design of 76
métro station, absurdly located exits 87
Opéra Garnier, see Opéra Orléans, Duc d’ (Philippe Egalité) 135
Othoniel, Jean-Michel (artist) 82
Oubari, Susan (fashion expert) 205, 208
padlocks, Pont des Arts 130
pain
au levain 191
de mie 191
Poîlane 192
see also baguettes
Paix, rue de la 202
Palais de Chaillot 128
Palais-Royal 7
gardens 133–6, 284
métro station, entrance 82
Panthéon 140
Pantin 58
Parc André Citroen 89, 282
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, see Buttes
Parc des Princes 14, 88
Parc Monceau 15
Parc Royal, rue du 34
Paris, Je t’aime (film) 90
Paris Plage(s) 22, 41, 56–9
Paris Saint-Germain (PSG) football fans 14, 88, 89
Paris Match (magazine) 37, 38, 49
Pariscope (listings magazine) 217
Parisien, Le (newspaper), anti-Parisian commercials 1–2, 3, 40
Parisians 1–27
becoming one 17–18
how not to annoy 19–27
prehistoric 102
spotting 6–17
parking, preferably on pavements 42–3
Parmentier, Antoine-Augustin (champion of potato) 84
Parmentier métro station 83–4
parrot joke, hoary (or whore-y) old 155–6
passers-by, spraying
firemen and 58
street cleaners and 39, 66–7
Passy métro station 86
Paul Séjourné, rue 34
Paul Verlaine, place, mineral water fountain 56
Pause Café 13
Pavée, rue 32
pavements 29–51
obstacles 42–4
peeing on (by humans) 40–2
see also parking
pedestrian crossings, rules for using 22
Percée, rue 31
Père Lachaise cemetery 12–13
périph, see boulevard périphérique 3
permettez-moi, usage 26
pétanque
gladiator-style in Arènes de Lutèce 105
during picnics at Bassin de la Villette 132
Petit Palais 74
Petite Ceinture (early urban railway) 70
Petits Champs, rue des 34
Peyrefitte, Roger (writer) 41
Philippe Auguste, King 103
Philippe Egalité, see Orléans
photos, Doisneau 125–6
Piaf, Édith (singer) 93, 143, 149, 223
Picasso, Pablo (artist) 15, 149, 229, 232
Les Demoiselles d’Avignon 163
Museum 8
Pigalle, place 11, 82, 90, 142–7, 159–69, 173, 238
pigeons 46–8
coops, contraceptive 48
Pissarro, Camille (artist) 232
pissoir, see vespasienne
Place de la Contrescarpe 9
Place d’ltalie: métro line 5 85
Place Saint-Germain des Prés 31
Plan autoroutier pour Paris 121–2
Plan Neptune (in case of flooding) 61–4
plane trees 45, 46
plaster of Paris, origin of 102
plat du jour, essential ingredient on menu 196
Play Lounge 145
Plumet, Charles (architect) 93
Plumey, Alain (museum director, ex-porn
actor) 161–5, 168
Plumey, Madame (monteuse) 164
political satire, kiosquiers and 37
politicians 10
Pompidou Centre, see Beaubourg
Pont Alexandre III 128
Pont de l’Alma 62-3, 65
golden flame 88
Pont de Levallois–Bécon: métro line 3 83-4
Pont de Saint-Cloud–Gare d’Austerlitz: métro line 10 89
Pont de Sèvres–Mairie de Montreuil: métro line 9 88–9
Pont de Tolbiac 64
Pont des Arts 128–30, 284
Pont Neuf 59, 128
métro station 87
Pop Art portraits 236
porn cinema industry 161, 163–4
port, Paris as 53–4
Porte d’Orléans: métro line 4 84
Porte Dauphine: métro line 2 82
station 76
Guimard entrance 82
Porte de Clignancourt–Porte d’Orléans: métro line 4 84
Porte de la Chapelle: métro line 12 90–1
Porte de Montreuil 89
Porte de Saint-Ouen 15
Porte de Versailles métro station 91
Porte de Vincennes 73
Porte des Lilas: métro line 3bis 93
station 90
Plumet entrance 93
Porte Maillot 73
postcodes 3
posts, anti-parking 42–3
potato, not poisonous 83–4
pour qui il/elle se prend?, usage of 26
Pré Saint-Gervais: métro line 7bis 93
pre-Haussmann Paris, photographs 113
Prêcheurs, rue des 35
prehistoric settlement, Bercy 101–2
Prêtres, rue des 31
Prévôt, rue du 31, 34
Prison de la Santé 41
pronunciation, fashion terms 214–15
property buying 259, 262–78
ads, vocabulary 268n
De Particulier à Particulier 266–7, 287
owners, buying from 267–78
prostitutes
business records 168
Napoleon’s first amour 135
Palais-Royal gardens 135–6
part-time 162–3
squeezed out 7
Prouté, Paul, gallery 251–2, 287
Prussian siege 1870–1 55, 56, 70, 174, 177–9
public toilets, idiosyncratic usage 2, 40–2
publishing houses, intellectual 10
puns 64, 262, see also hairdressers’ names
PSG, see Paris Saint-Germain
Quai de la Rapée métro station 85
Quai de Loire MK2 131, 132, 284
Quai de Seine MK2 131, 284
Quartier de l’Horloge 8, 121
Queneau, Raymond (writer), Zazie dans le Métro 94, 290
queues
general rules for conduct 20–1
supermarket checkouts 2
racaille 7
railways, urban 70–1
Ramponeau, rue 236
Ramuz, Charles Ferdinand (writer), Paris, Notes d’un Vaudois 18
RATP (Paris transport agency), flood preparations 62
rats, as part of Parisian cuisine 174, 177
Réaumur-Sébastopol métro station 83
redevelopment/remodelling 99–100, 101, 103–4
Fournel on 115–16
Haussmann 54, 58, 65, 101, 111–14
recent 121–3
redevelopment zones 234
regional cuisines 190
Renaissance Paris 107
Rennes, rue de 31
Renoir, Auguste (artist) 232, 240, 247
rent controls, loi de 1948, abolition 260–2
rented apartments, rules for conduct 24–5
République métro station 83
République square 150 RER (réseau express régional) 7, 69-70, 89
Resistance fighters, commemorative street plaques 35
restaurants
and baguettes 185, 188
authentic 127
French cuisine, selecting 190–7
romantic 148–52
rules for conduct 19–20
Revolution, French 108–9, 110
and street-name signs 33
sex after 157–8
‘revolutionary’ time 108
revolutions, French, various 111, 112, 114–15
rich people
dressed down 9
Montmartre 15
old ladies 11
ostentatious 9–10
Richard, Pierre (actor) 225
Rimbaud, Arthur (poet) 89, 236
ring road, see boulevard périphérique 3
Ritz bar 147–8, 284
Rivoli, rue de 35, 133
road signs, see street signs
Robert Esnault-Pelterie, rue 35–6
Rochefort, Jean (actor) 226
Roi de Sicile, rue du 32
Roman Paris 102–6
romance 125–53
or sex? 144–7
Roquette, rue de la 12
Rosiers, rue des 8–9
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques (writer) 199
royal sex 137–8, 157
royalties, for location filming 222
Rungis
food market 179
tree nursery 46
Sacré Coeur 128
Saint Laurent, Yves (fashion designer) 204
Saint-Bernard, quai 57
Saint Denis 105–6
Saint-Denis, rue 7, 159, 160
Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de (writer) 99
Saint-Fargeau métro station, Plumet entrance 93
Saint-Germain, boulevard 10, 199, 250
Saint-Germain des Prés 10
métro station, literary events 84
Saint-Germain l’Auxerrois 116
Saint-Jacques métro station 86
Saint-Lazare
Gare 59, 83
métro station 91
métro line 14 92–3
Saint-Michel, boulevard 102
métro station 84
Saint-Sulpice church 219
salad dressings, quality of 192–3
see also chèvre chaud
salmon, bad sign if on menu 196
Salon de l’Agriculture 91
Salon des Refusés 230
sani-broyeurs 272–3, 277
sanisettes 41–2
Sarkozy, Nicolas, at Salon de l’Agriculture 91
see also Bruni
Savoyards, Drouot sales rooms 253–4
Scherrer, Jean-Louis (fashion designer) 204
Schifres, Alain (journalist) 29
seats, competing for, métro 94–95
Sébastopol, siege of 83
‘siege game’ 174, 177
see also rat
Seine
drinking water from 54–5
floods 59–64, 74
Paris Plage(s) 22, 41, 56–9
Pont Neuf métro station 87
Right Bank autoroute 122
rue de, art galleries 250–2
tunnel, and 1910 flood 74
Sentier 7
Sévigné, Marquise de 32, 100
sewers, guided tour 65
sex
industry 155–73
shops 160
with vegetables 176
see also smiling
Sex
