2. In a standing mixer (or in a large bowl with a whisk or mixer), beat the egg whites until they reach stiff peaks (adding a pinch of salt at the start will help them stiffen).
3. Gently fold one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture. Mix gently, then fold in the other half, mixing very gently. Spoon the mousse into little serving dishes and chill for 2 to 3 hours, or until firm. Serve with berries or crisp little cookies on the side.
Tip: Served in a big bowl, this makes a big impression. But it will be tidier and more elegant (and the mousse will likely remain more firm) if prepared and served in little individual bowls (plus, no fighting about who got more!).
Clafoutis
(Sweet Cherry Soufflé)
Preparation: 10 minutes
Cooking: 40 to 43 minutes
Servings: 6 generous pieces
Clafoutis is a version of the French flan that is traditionally made with cherries (or other moist fruit such as plums, prunes, raspberries, or blackberries), enveloped by a simple cake batter. The fruit is polka-dotted in the cake, giving it a playful look that children love. Even the name is fun to say: kla-foo-TEE. Traditionally, this dish is cooked with the pits left inside the cherries (purists believe that this intensifies the flavor of the dish). I pit the cherries (or, when I’m in a rush, use small plums instead, which are easier to pit).
Our source for the cherries is an old tree at Philippe’s aunt’s house. Tante Odette’s tree is the most productive I’ve ever encountered; the branches, weighed down with cherries, hang down almost to the ground. In late June, the extended family is mobilized for cherry picking, cherry jam making, and (of course) cherry eating. Clafoutis is my daughters’ favorite recipe from this time of year.
2 cups pitted cherries or plums (or other moist fruit)
1/3 cup granulated sugar
½ cup flour
Pinch of salt
3 eggs
1¼ cups milk
1 tablespoon vanilla
1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar (or brown sugar—I like muscovado)
1. Place the fruit in a bowl with half the granulated sugar, stir well, and set aside.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9-inch baking dish.
3. In a large bowl, sift the flour with the salt and remaining sugar. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs and milk to combine. Add the vanilla. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and combine well. Spread the fruit evenly in the baking dish and pour the batter on top. The cherries may float to the surface now (or later, during baking).
4. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the top is firm and golden brown. Cool, then sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar. Serve immediately.
Note: Julia Child recommends baking this twice (briefly baking a thin layer in the bottom of the dish, then adding the fruit topped with the remaining batter and baking until done). But the French parents I know use this “express” method, with wonderful results!
Tip: Serve the clafoutis in the baking dish, as it is quite “wobbly” and won’t transfer well. Fresh out of the oven, the cake is puffed up and golden. It will settle and sag a little bit, but that’s exactly what it is supposed to do.
Resources
The North American food movement is enormous and is growing rapidly. These are just a few of my personal favorites.
Books for Parents
Winning the Food Fight (Natalie Rigal)
Food Politics (Marion Nestle)
Food Rules (Michael Pollan)
Just Take a Bite (Lori Ernsperger and Tania Stegen-Hanson)
Books for Kids and Teens
Eating the Alphabet (Lois Ehrlert) (preschoolers)
I Can Eat a Rainbow: A Fun Look at Healthy Foods and Vegetables (Annabel Karmel and Dorling Kindersley) (preschoolers)
Alexander and the Great Food Fight (Linda Hawkins) (5 to 8 years)
Did You Eat Your Vitamins Today? (Ena Sabih) (5 to 8 years)
The Vegetables We Eat (Gail Gibbons) (8 to 12 years)
The Omnivore’s Dilemma: The Secrets Behind What You Eat. Young Reader’s Edition (Michael Pollan) (teens)
Chew on This: Everything You Don’t Want to Know About Fast Food (Eric Schlosser) (teens)
Campaigns and Resources
• Slow Food USA’s “Time for Lunch” campaign: slowfoodusa.org
• Chef Jamie Oliver’s “Food Revolution”: jamieoliver.com
• Great school lunch reform guide from the Centre for Ecoliteracy: ecoliteracy.org.
• Chef Ann Cooper’s school “Lunch Box” campaign: chefann.com
• The Farm to School movement gets local farm produce into school lunches: farmtoschool.org
• Great ideas for starting a school garden: schoolgardenwizard.org
• Helpful tips for picky eaters from the USDA: mypyramid.gov/ preschoolers
• Find a local farmer’s market near you: localharvest.org
• The Centre for Science in the Public Interest is a powerhouse of the food reform movement: www.cspi.org.
Acknowledgments
Paul and Pauline were the first to hear this idea, and enthusiastic supporters right from the start. Andrew Wylie kindly gave the proposal a read, and his words of encouragement took me a very long way. Martha Magor Webb is as much a muse as an agent; together with Chris Bucci and Anne McDermid, she saw more in this project than even I did. Without her, this book would never have seen the light of day. Kate Cassaday at HarperCollins Canada and Cassie Jones at William Morrow, editors extraordinaire, were also ideal readers: incisive, insightful, funny, and warm. I’m grateful to them and the entire team at HarperCollins.
In Canada, friends and family (Philippe, Roberta, John, Kristine, Deborah) devotedly read through drafts and (later) blog posts, listened to my stories, and told many of their own in return. Glen and Catherine inspired us with their real-life “slow food” example close to home. Kathy Wazana, Alexandra Greenhill, Leslie Paris, Paula Rosen, Step Carruthers, and Kia Robertson were enthusiastic early supporters. Sonja shared a love of France, and French nursery rhymes galore. And phenomenal illustrator
